Canine influenza virus (CIV) is a new virus that has been recently identified as a part of the canine infectious respiratory disease complex, otherwise known as kennel cough.
“Kennel cough” is a collection of viruses that cause upper respiratory disease in dogs.
This new virus is causing a bit of a scare, similar to that of the human H1N1, swine flu virus. Hopefully, this information will put your worst fears at ease.
What is This New Canine Influenza?
All viruses are categorized by their surface protein, of which there are two: “H” and “N.”
The canine virus is categorized as H3N8. Interestingly, the H3N8 virus is also the categorization for the equine (horse) influenza virus, which has been in the US for over 40 years.
Epidemiologists knew dogs could acquire this virus from horses, but veterinarians also know the flu virus is very adaptable to change, which is what happened in this situation.
In this case, the equine virus mutated, and is now capable of being transmitted from dog to dog, without an equine host.
It’s worth noting that CIV has no correlation with any of the human viruses, including the avian flu, or the swine flu. There have been no documented cases of dogs acquiring the swine flu virus.
Contributing Factors that Promote Spreading of Canine Influenza
Two major factors have been identified that can contribute to animals breaking with this infection:
Overcrowding, such as dog kennels, shelters, and racing facilities
Stress, which suppresses your dog’s immune system
Racing greyhounds, for example, experience very stressful conditions, but there are many situations that can cause your dog to experience stress, and environmental factors such as toxins also play an important role.
Signs and Symptoms of Canine Influenza
The symptoms of CIV are quite similar to that of the human flu virus, including:
Cough
Runny nose
Lethargy
Fever
The incubation period for the H3N8 virus is two to four days, at which point you’ll notice upper respiratory symptoms. The symptoms typically last for about 7 days, during which time your dog is infectious.
Naturally, you’ll want to avoid him mingling with other dogs during this time in order to not spread the infection.
If your dog’s symptoms are progressively getting worse, you’ll want to take your dog to a veterinarian – ideally a holistic veterinarian, who has access to a whole arsenal of natural treatments that can help. To find an integrative vet in your area, visit www.ahvma.org.
Most dogs, however, will not need medical treatment.
The viral infection is temporary, and under normal circumstances your dog’s immune system will be quite capable of overcoming the virus naturally.
How to Boost Your Dog’s Immune System
Regardless of the type of infectious disease, there are strategies you can use to help bolster your dog’s natural defenses, including:
Feed your dog a balanced, raw food, species appropriate diet. Remember that a balanced diet needs to include adequate amounts of trace minerals, antioxidants and fatty acids
Reduce stress by reducing your dog’s environmental toxin load
These common sense strategies will help your dog's immune system remain strong and resilient.
While there is much talk about toxins wreaking havoc with human health, many forget that animals, both domestic and wild, are equally at risk from environmental poisons, which increases their toxic burden and creates biological stress.
To help reduce your pet’s environmental toxin load, make sure your dog has access to pure drinking water and optimal air quality. As you may already know, indoor air quality is typically far worse than outdoors, so you may want to invest in a good indoor air purifier, both for your own health as well as your pet’s.
You’ll also want to avoid as many chemicals as possible. This includes chemicals sprayed around your house, such as herbicides, pesticides and insecticides, as well as those applied directly to your pet, such as flea and tick medications.
Last, but certainly not least, you’ll want to limit the amount of vaccines you give to your dog.
Vaccines are metabolic stressors that can distract your pet’s immune system, and actually open them up to infectious
It’s important to realize that dogs do not require annual vaccinations. For more in-depth information about vaccinations, please see my previous article, When it Comes to Vaccinating Your Pet, Less is More.
What About the CIV Vaccine?
I recommend NOT vaccinating against CIV, since most house pets will not be in situations that warrant the use of the vaccine, such as in overcrowded boarding facilities, race tracks, or pet shelters.
Worse yet, some uneducated people are asking their vets to administer the CIV vaccine to prevent the human H1N1 flu, and some vets are more than willing to comply, taking advantage of their ignorance. However, these two strains are completely unrelated and one vaccine will not protect against the other. Remember, dogs do not acquire swine flu.
Remember, in the vast majority of cases, dogs recover uneventfully from their “dog flu” on their own. Only rarely is hospitalization needed -- usually only for very young puppies or immuno-suppressed animals, such as older, debilitated or immensely stressed animals.
If you have cause to believe that your dog has been exposed to the CIV virus, your veterinarian can do a PCR nasal swab, or take paired serum samples to confirm this diagnosis, but in the vast majority of cases you don’t need to do either, unless you can clearly see that your dog is unraveling from potential infection.
If your dog has been exposed I do recommend, however, considering the common sense strategies like adding turmeric, oregano, and fresh garlic to your dog’s diet, which all boost natural immune defenses. Discuss appropriate doses for your dog’s age and current immune status with your integrative veterinarian.
You can also use adaptogenic herbs, such as ashwagandha, tulsi, bach flower essences, or essential oil of lavender, which can help limit the amount of immune suppression that might occur when your pet is exposed to intermittent stressors.
Your best bet is to help your dog develop a functional immune system through adequate diet and stress reduction.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Beware! Halloween Candy is Just One Type of Food that Could Kill Your Pet
In 2008, the Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA) handled over 140,000 cases pertaining to pets that were exposed to toxic substances, and many included everyday household products in and around their own homes.
In response ASPCA put together the top 10 list of pet poisons in 2008, and it’s important that you become familiar with this list to help prevent any mishaps at home.
The Top 10 Poisons of 2008
1. Human Medications: 50,000 cases
It’s easy for pets to snatch pills from counters and bed-side tables, or quickly eat them if you’ve dropped a couple on the floor. Both over-the-counter and prescription medications including painkillers, antidepressants and even dietary supplements can be problematic.
2. Insecticides: 31,000 cases
One of the most common exposures involved using chemical flea and tick products incorrectly, such as applying a topical product for dogs on a cat.
3. People Food: 15,000 cases
Grapes, raisins, avocado and certain citrus fruits can all be dangerous for pets, but one of the worst offenders was chocolate, which contains large amounts of methylxanthines. If ingested it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination and hyperactivity, and in severe cases abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures.
4. Rodenticides: 8,000 cases
Rat and mouse poison can contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to pets. Aside from eating the poison itself, pets can also become sick from eating a rodent that’s ingested poison. Exposure to rat and mouse poison can cause bleeding, seizures and kidney damage.
5. Veterinary Medications: 8,000 cases
Drugs meant for animals can still cause side effects, especially when they are misapplied or improperly dispensed. Some of the most common toxic exposures involved non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements.
6. Plants: 8,000 cases
Azaleas, rododendrons, sago palms, lilies, kalanchoe, and schefflera are common houseplants that can be toxic to pets. Lilies are especially toxic to cats and can cause kidney failure even in small amounts.
7. Chemical Hazards: 5,500 cases
Many chemicals around your home can symptoms ranging from gastrointestinal upset and respiratory difficulties to depression and chemical burns in your pets. Examples include antifreeze, paint thinner, drain cleaners and pool/spa chemicals.
8. Household Cleaners: 3,200 cases
Bleaches, detergents and disinfectants contain chemicals that can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and irritation to the respiratory tract in your pets.
9. Heavy Metals: 3,000 cases
Metals such as lead, zinc and mercury can all poison your pets. Lead is especially widespread and pets can be exposed via paint chips, linoleum and lead dust that’s produced when surfaces in old homes are scraped and sanded.
10. Fertilizer: 2,000 cases
If your lawn has been sprayed with a chemical fertilizer it’s essential to keep your pet off of it. Prevention is the best tip for avoiding accidental exposure to these potentially toxic chemicals.
What to Do if Your Pet is Poisoned
If your pet becomes poisoned, don’t panic. If your pet is showing symptoms, go to an emergency vet in your area immediately. Otherwise, if you think your pet may have gotten into a toxin but you’re not sure, collect any remaining toxic product and call Poison Control (888-426-4435), which comes with a $60 consultation charge. Have your pet’s age, breed, sex, and weight information, along with any remnants of the toxin, on hand to provide to the toxicologist.
You may also be asked to specify what the potential toxic substance was, about how long ago your pet was exposed and about how much your pet consumed.
But, again, if your pet is already showing symptoms of poisoning, such as respiratory distress, seizures, or loss of consciousness, go to your emergency vet immediately so your pet can get the urgent help he needs.
Which “Human” Foods are Toxic for Pets?
People food was the third top poison to pets in 2008, and while certain human foods can be very healthy for dogs and cats -- and it’s certainly preferable to feed your pets fresh, species-appropriate human-grade food as much as possible -- there are some foods that are toxic to pets.
Here are some human foods you absolutely should not feed your pets:
Grapes and raisins, which can sometimes cause kidney failure in very low amounts
Chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, which are both classified as methylxanthines; these can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, tremors, and potentially death (the more bitter the chocolate, the more toxic it is for your pets)
Onions and members of the onion family, such as leeks and chives; these can cause damage to red blood cells that could result in anemia in both dogs and cats. The exception is garlic, which is metabolized into a different metabolite than onions that is not toxic to pets. A small amount of fresh garlic fed to pets daily actually has some great health benefits.
Macadamia nuts may cause problems including weakness, depression, vomiting, ataxia, tremors, and hyperthermia.
Rising bread dough can be life-threatening – The bread dough itself is not toxic but the animal's body heat can cause the dough to rise in the stomach, doubling or tripling in size and leading to impaction. The dough can also produce ethanol, which causes animals to stumble and become disoriented, lethargic and depressed.
Xylitol, a sugar substitute common in sugar-free chewing gum, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia and liver damage in dogs; if your dog has ingested gum, bring your dog to the emergency vet immediately!
Again, if you know your pet has ingested a toxin and is showing signs of distress, take him to your emergency vet immediately. If your pet is not showing any symptoms yet, but you suspect he may have ingested a toxin, call Poison Control at 888-426-4435 to find out the next best steps to take.
In response ASPCA put together the top 10 list of pet poisons in 2008, and it’s important that you become familiar with this list to help prevent any mishaps at home.
The Top 10 Poisons of 2008
1. Human Medications: 50,000 cases
It’s easy for pets to snatch pills from counters and bed-side tables, or quickly eat them if you’ve dropped a couple on the floor. Both over-the-counter and prescription medications including painkillers, antidepressants and even dietary supplements can be problematic.
2. Insecticides: 31,000 cases
One of the most common exposures involved using chemical flea and tick products incorrectly, such as applying a topical product for dogs on a cat.
3. People Food: 15,000 cases
Grapes, raisins, avocado and certain citrus fruits can all be dangerous for pets, but one of the worst offenders was chocolate, which contains large amounts of methylxanthines. If ingested it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination and hyperactivity, and in severe cases abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures.
4. Rodenticides: 8,000 cases
Rat and mouse poison can contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to pets. Aside from eating the poison itself, pets can also become sick from eating a rodent that’s ingested poison. Exposure to rat and mouse poison can cause bleeding, seizures and kidney damage.
5. Veterinary Medications: 8,000 cases
Drugs meant for animals can still cause side effects, especially when they are misapplied or improperly dispensed. Some of the most common toxic exposures involved non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements.
6. Plants: 8,000 cases
Azaleas, rododendrons, sago palms, lilies, kalanchoe, and schefflera are common houseplants that can be toxic to pets. Lilies are especially toxic to cats and can cause kidney failure even in small amounts.
7. Chemical Hazards: 5,500 cases
Many chemicals around your home can symptoms ranging from gastrointestinal upset and respiratory difficulties to depression and chemical burns in your pets. Examples include antifreeze, paint thinner, drain cleaners and pool/spa chemicals.
8. Household Cleaners: 3,200 cases
Bleaches, detergents and disinfectants contain chemicals that can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and irritation to the respiratory tract in your pets.
9. Heavy Metals: 3,000 cases
Metals such as lead, zinc and mercury can all poison your pets. Lead is especially widespread and pets can be exposed via paint chips, linoleum and lead dust that’s produced when surfaces in old homes are scraped and sanded.
10. Fertilizer: 2,000 cases
If your lawn has been sprayed with a chemical fertilizer it’s essential to keep your pet off of it. Prevention is the best tip for avoiding accidental exposure to these potentially toxic chemicals.
What to Do if Your Pet is Poisoned
If your pet becomes poisoned, don’t panic. If your pet is showing symptoms, go to an emergency vet in your area immediately. Otherwise, if you think your pet may have gotten into a toxin but you’re not sure, collect any remaining toxic product and call Poison Control (888-426-4435), which comes with a $60 consultation charge. Have your pet’s age, breed, sex, and weight information, along with any remnants of the toxin, on hand to provide to the toxicologist.
You may also be asked to specify what the potential toxic substance was, about how long ago your pet was exposed and about how much your pet consumed.
But, again, if your pet is already showing symptoms of poisoning, such as respiratory distress, seizures, or loss of consciousness, go to your emergency vet immediately so your pet can get the urgent help he needs.
Which “Human” Foods are Toxic for Pets?
People food was the third top poison to pets in 2008, and while certain human foods can be very healthy for dogs and cats -- and it’s certainly preferable to feed your pets fresh, species-appropriate human-grade food as much as possible -- there are some foods that are toxic to pets.
Here are some human foods you absolutely should not feed your pets:
Grapes and raisins, which can sometimes cause kidney failure in very low amounts
Chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, which are both classified as methylxanthines; these can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, tremors, and potentially death (the more bitter the chocolate, the more toxic it is for your pets)
Onions and members of the onion family, such as leeks and chives; these can cause damage to red blood cells that could result in anemia in both dogs and cats. The exception is garlic, which is metabolized into a different metabolite than onions that is not toxic to pets. A small amount of fresh garlic fed to pets daily actually has some great health benefits.
Macadamia nuts may cause problems including weakness, depression, vomiting, ataxia, tremors, and hyperthermia.
Rising bread dough can be life-threatening – The bread dough itself is not toxic but the animal's body heat can cause the dough to rise in the stomach, doubling or tripling in size and leading to impaction. The dough can also produce ethanol, which causes animals to stumble and become disoriented, lethargic and depressed.
Xylitol, a sugar substitute common in sugar-free chewing gum, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia and liver damage in dogs; if your dog has ingested gum, bring your dog to the emergency vet immediately!
Again, if you know your pet has ingested a toxin and is showing signs of distress, take him to your emergency vet immediately. If your pet is not showing any symptoms yet, but you suspect he may have ingested a toxin, call Poison Control at 888-426-4435 to find out the next best steps to take.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
These 3 Things May Indicate Your Pet has a Bladder Problem ...
To understand your pet’s urine ph, it’s important to understand the Ph scale. Seven is neutral, everything above 7 is alkaline, everything below 7 is acidic.
Cats and dogs, being carnivores, are designed to have a slightly acidic urine Ph -- optimally between 6 and 6.5.
Dogs and cats, of course, are designed to eat meat, and this diet drops their urine into this slightly acidic range. Vegetarian animals, like goats and horses, have a more alkaline urine because they eat primarily grains and grasses.
A problem arises, however, when dogs and cats, which are designed to eat meat, are fed a grain-based diet, as is the case with many commercial dog and cat foods. This causes their urine to become more alkaline, which may lead to three major problems.
The Bladder Risks of Feeding Your Pet a High-Grain Diet
Three major problems come about when dogs or cats develop alkaline urine:
Infection, because the natural bladder defenses are unable to maintain the urine’s correct Ph. Urine is sterile when kept at the appropriate 6 to 6.5 Ph, but when it creeps up toward the alkaline side the urine loses it’s natural defenses becomes more hospitable environment for infection to occur.
Cystitis (bladder inflammation). Cats especially can end up with chronic inflammation of the bladder, a painful condition that can lead to bleeding and secondary infection.
Urinary crystals or stones. When a urine Ph becomes alkaline, minerals can settle out of the urine and form crystals, which are microscopic, sharp particles that irritate and inflame the bladder. If crystals remain in the bladder long enough, they can fuse together to form stones.
So a healthy urine Ph is incredibly important for your pet’s bladder health, not only to prevent infection but also chronic inflammation, crystals and stones.
What to Do if You Suspect Your Pet Has a Bladder Problem
If your pet is urinating outside the litter box or around the house, it could be an indication of a bladder problem. In this case, it’s important that you drop a urine sample off with your veterinarian so they can perform a urinalysis.
A urinalysis will provide valuable information about why your pet is having urinary problems. In addition to providing information about the presence of blood, protein, glucose, keytones and bilirubin, a urinalysis will also determine how well your pet can concentrate his or her urine … a good indication of kidney health. Urinalysis will also detect white blood cells, which means there is inflammation or infection, and a urine culture and sensitivity can determine if bacteria is present, and what type, to help devise a treatment plan.
If an infection is present, medication may be needed to treat the problem. However, sometimes pets experience inflammation or crystals without any infection present. In this latter case a different set of medications may initially be needed, but ultimately, in both situations, this is often a sign that it may be time to change their diet.
What Type of Diet is Best for Your Pet’s Bladder Health?
If your pet is experiencing chronic bladder problems, poor or improper diet is the culprit in the vast majority of cases.
A prescription diet, which many vets may offer you, typically combines high-carb foods with medications to drop your pet's urine Ph. Doesn't it make much more sense to feed your pet a food that does not contain those alkalizing carbohydrates, and that is naturally low in carbs?
By feeding your pet a species-appropriate, raw food diet, which will naturally be low in carbs, you can often help them achieve a perfect urinary Ph balance without the need for poor-quality prescription diets.
Cats and dogs, being carnivores, are designed to have a slightly acidic urine Ph -- optimally between 6 and 6.5.
Dogs and cats, of course, are designed to eat meat, and this diet drops their urine into this slightly acidic range. Vegetarian animals, like goats and horses, have a more alkaline urine because they eat primarily grains and grasses.
A problem arises, however, when dogs and cats, which are designed to eat meat, are fed a grain-based diet, as is the case with many commercial dog and cat foods. This causes their urine to become more alkaline, which may lead to three major problems.
The Bladder Risks of Feeding Your Pet a High-Grain Diet
Three major problems come about when dogs or cats develop alkaline urine:
Infection, because the natural bladder defenses are unable to maintain the urine’s correct Ph. Urine is sterile when kept at the appropriate 6 to 6.5 Ph, but when it creeps up toward the alkaline side the urine loses it’s natural defenses becomes more hospitable environment for infection to occur.
Cystitis (bladder inflammation). Cats especially can end up with chronic inflammation of the bladder, a painful condition that can lead to bleeding and secondary infection.
Urinary crystals or stones. When a urine Ph becomes alkaline, minerals can settle out of the urine and form crystals, which are microscopic, sharp particles that irritate and inflame the bladder. If crystals remain in the bladder long enough, they can fuse together to form stones.
So a healthy urine Ph is incredibly important for your pet’s bladder health, not only to prevent infection but also chronic inflammation, crystals and stones.
What to Do if You Suspect Your Pet Has a Bladder Problem
If your pet is urinating outside the litter box or around the house, it could be an indication of a bladder problem. In this case, it’s important that you drop a urine sample off with your veterinarian so they can perform a urinalysis.
A urinalysis will provide valuable information about why your pet is having urinary problems. In addition to providing information about the presence of blood, protein, glucose, keytones and bilirubin, a urinalysis will also determine how well your pet can concentrate his or her urine … a good indication of kidney health. Urinalysis will also detect white blood cells, which means there is inflammation or infection, and a urine culture and sensitivity can determine if bacteria is present, and what type, to help devise a treatment plan.
If an infection is present, medication may be needed to treat the problem. However, sometimes pets experience inflammation or crystals without any infection present. In this latter case a different set of medications may initially be needed, but ultimately, in both situations, this is often a sign that it may be time to change their diet.
What Type of Diet is Best for Your Pet’s Bladder Health?
If your pet is experiencing chronic bladder problems, poor or improper diet is the culprit in the vast majority of cases.
A prescription diet, which many vets may offer you, typically combines high-carb foods with medications to drop your pet's urine Ph. Doesn't it make much more sense to feed your pet a food that does not contain those alkalizing carbohydrates, and that is naturally low in carbs?
By feeding your pet a species-appropriate, raw food diet, which will naturally be low in carbs, you can often help them achieve a perfect urinary Ph balance without the need for poor-quality prescription diets.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Top Pet Dangers to Avoid on Labor Day
Labor Day Dangers to Avoid
Labor Day weekend marks summer’s unofficial end, and many families are heading out—with their companion animals—for end-of-season getaways. The ASPCA hopes you enjoy the last days of summer and reminds you to make sure your four-legged friends enjoy a safe holiday, too. By following these simple safety tips, you can rest assured your pet will remain happy and healthy during his last summer blast!
Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.
Always assign a dog guardian. No matter where you’re celebrating, be sure to assign a friend or member of the family to keep an eye on your pooch—especially if you’re not in a fenced-in yard or other secure area. With all the festivities, it’s easy to overlook a dog on the run!
Made in the shade. Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water, and make sure they have a shady place to escape the sun. Be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.
Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of paws’ reach. Certain types of matches contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing—or even kidney disease in severe cases. Lighter fluid can be irritating to skin, and if ingested, can produce gastrointestinal irritation and central nervous system depression. If lighter fluid is inhaled, pneumonia and breathing problems could develop.
Keep your pet on his normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give your pet severe indigestion and diarrhea. This is particularly true for older animals who have more delicate digestive systems and nutritional requirements. And keep in mind that people foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, salt, yeast dough, grapes and raisins can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.
Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingesting any of these items can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression in your pets, and if inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia.
Never leave your dog alone in the car. Traveling with your dog means occasionally you’ll make stops in places where he’s not permitted. Be sure to rotate dog walking duties between family members, and never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time, even with the windows open—not to mention it’s illegal in several states!
Make a safe splash. Don’t leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Labor Day weekend marks summer’s unofficial end, and many families are heading out—with their companion animals—for end-of-season getaways. The ASPCA hopes you enjoy the last days of summer and reminds you to make sure your four-legged friends enjoy a safe holiday, too. By following these simple safety tips, you can rest assured your pet will remain happy and healthy during his last summer blast!
Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.
Always assign a dog guardian. No matter where you’re celebrating, be sure to assign a friend or member of the family to keep an eye on your pooch—especially if you’re not in a fenced-in yard or other secure area. With all the festivities, it’s easy to overlook a dog on the run!
Made in the shade. Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water, and make sure they have a shady place to escape the sun. Be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.
Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of paws’ reach. Certain types of matches contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing—or even kidney disease in severe cases. Lighter fluid can be irritating to skin, and if ingested, can produce gastrointestinal irritation and central nervous system depression. If lighter fluid is inhaled, pneumonia and breathing problems could develop.
Keep your pet on his normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give your pet severe indigestion and diarrhea. This is particularly true for older animals who have more delicate digestive systems and nutritional requirements. And keep in mind that people foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, salt, yeast dough, grapes and raisins can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.
Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingesting any of these items can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression in your pets, and if inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia.
Never leave your dog alone in the car. Traveling with your dog means occasionally you’ll make stops in places where he’s not permitted. Be sure to rotate dog walking duties between family members, and never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time, even with the windows open—not to mention it’s illegal in several states!
Make a safe splash. Don’t leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Friday, July 24, 2009
10 Household Items Poisonous to Dogs
ASPCA’s Poison Control Center says many household items can be poisonous to dogs.
The ASPCA last week revealed that it managed more than 116,000 calls to its Animal Poison Control Center hotline in 2006, many of which pertained to pet poisonings from common household items.
“While the reason is not clear, calls in virtually each of these categories seems to be on the rise,” said Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president with the ASPCA, who manages the ASPCA’s Midwest Office, which houses the APCC.
During National Poison Prevention Week, from March 18 to 24, the ASPCA is advising pet owners to stay alert to the possibility of poisoning from these common household items:
1. Human medications: The ASPCA says this category has been number one on its list of common items hazardous to dogs for years, including in 2006. Last year, more than 78,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the poison control center — a 69 percent increase over 2005.
2. Insecticides: The APCC handled more than 27,000 pet poisonings pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects in 2006, up more than 28 percent from 2005. “A key factor in the safe use of products that eliminate fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs, is reading and following label instructions exactly,” Hansen said.
3. Veterinary medications: The APCC says it managed more than 12,000 cases in 2006 involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements — a 93 percent hike in volume.
4. Plants: The number of pet poisonings involving plants also shot up by more than 111 percent in 2006 to over 9,300. While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from dogs, it is also a good idea to discourage dogs from nibbling on any variety of plant, as even non-toxic plants can lead to minor stomach upsets.
5. Rodenticides: Last year, approximately 8,800 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received by the APCC, representing an increase of more than 27 percent over 2005.
6. Household cleaners: In 2006, the APCC received approximately 7,200 calls of pet poisonings pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants.
7. Chocolate: Always a common food-related call, more than 4,800 chocolate calls were received by the APCC last year, an 85 percent increase from 2005. Chocolate is poisonous and potentially fatal to dogs. “Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning,” Hansen said.
8. Chemical hazards: A newcomer to the top 10 pet poisons, this includes such harmful items as volatile petroleum-based products, alcohols, acids and gases. In 2006, the APCC received more than 4,100 calls related to chemical hazards — a jump in call volume of more than 300 percent.
9. Physical hazards: While not necessarily all toxic, items in this group include objects that could pose a choking hazard, risk for intestinal obstruction, or other physical injury. In 2006, the number of pet cases related to a physical hazard grew 460 percent to over 3,800.
10. Home improvement products: In 2006, about 2,100 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues and other products commonly used in construction were managed by the APCC — up 17 percent from 2005.
The ASPCA last week revealed that it managed more than 116,000 calls to its Animal Poison Control Center hotline in 2006, many of which pertained to pet poisonings from common household items.
“While the reason is not clear, calls in virtually each of these categories seems to be on the rise,” said Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president with the ASPCA, who manages the ASPCA’s Midwest Office, which houses the APCC.
During National Poison Prevention Week, from March 18 to 24, the ASPCA is advising pet owners to stay alert to the possibility of poisoning from these common household items:
1. Human medications: The ASPCA says this category has been number one on its list of common items hazardous to dogs for years, including in 2006. Last year, more than 78,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the poison control center — a 69 percent increase over 2005.
2. Insecticides: The APCC handled more than 27,000 pet poisonings pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects in 2006, up more than 28 percent from 2005. “A key factor in the safe use of products that eliminate fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs, is reading and following label instructions exactly,” Hansen said.
3. Veterinary medications: The APCC says it managed more than 12,000 cases in 2006 involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements — a 93 percent hike in volume.
4. Plants: The number of pet poisonings involving plants also shot up by more than 111 percent in 2006 to over 9,300. While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from dogs, it is also a good idea to discourage dogs from nibbling on any variety of plant, as even non-toxic plants can lead to minor stomach upsets.
5. Rodenticides: Last year, approximately 8,800 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received by the APCC, representing an increase of more than 27 percent over 2005.
6. Household cleaners: In 2006, the APCC received approximately 7,200 calls of pet poisonings pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants.
7. Chocolate: Always a common food-related call, more than 4,800 chocolate calls were received by the APCC last year, an 85 percent increase from 2005. Chocolate is poisonous and potentially fatal to dogs. “Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning,” Hansen said.
8. Chemical hazards: A newcomer to the top 10 pet poisons, this includes such harmful items as volatile petroleum-based products, alcohols, acids and gases. In 2006, the APCC received more than 4,100 calls related to chemical hazards — a jump in call volume of more than 300 percent.
9. Physical hazards: While not necessarily all toxic, items in this group include objects that could pose a choking hazard, risk for intestinal obstruction, or other physical injury. In 2006, the number of pet cases related to a physical hazard grew 460 percent to over 3,800.
10. Home improvement products: In 2006, about 2,100 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues and other products commonly used in construction were managed by the APCC — up 17 percent from 2005.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
What Dangerous Byproducts Lurk in Cat Food?
A pair of glowing green eyes shimmers in the moonlit night…still and watching. Waiting. Patient. Then suddenly, like a spring—the shadowy figure leaps out and pounces on its unsuspecting prey.
Unwilling to end the hunt so easily, the Mighty Hunter tosses it into the air, letting it fly, again and again, down to the ground and up again, letting it fall to the earth and scamper free.
Just when Little Gray thinks it’s crafted an escape, it’s captured again. When Little Gray finally gasps its last breath, the Mighty Hunter revels in his moonlight snack.
Chances are, since you’re reading this article, you’re a cat owner and the above scenario rings a familiar bell. Why do cats display this perpetual hunting behavior, despite having a full bowl of kibble inside?
Cats were simply created to catch and kill prey. They are hard-wired that way.
House cats descended from their carnivorous wildcat ancestors who roamed the desert plains of Africa, feeding on mice and other small mammals. They have sharp, interlocking canines built for grasping, puncturing and tearing animal flesh. Their jaws are hinged to move up and down, unlike herbivores such as cows and horses whose jaws move side to side, performing a grinding motion that breaks apart fibrous material.
The first documentation we have of cat domestication is from Egypt, where they used them in granaries to keep mouse populations down.
Gradually, over the last thousand years, kitties have warmed their way into our hearts and through our front doors. We discovered what lovely companions they could be. Although they no longer have to fend for themselves, their transition from the wild has not been altogether helpful to their overall health, sadly enough.
It wasn’t until the early 1900s that we produced the first bag of cat food, more for our own convenience than the well being of our feline friends, whose digestive systems were designed to process live meat, a far cry from dry kibble.
The cat is more than a carnivore—she is an obligate carnivore. To survive, the cat must eat meat.
Basic Cat Nutritional Requirements
Cats, like all animals, require six classes of nutrients:
Water
Energy
Protein
Essential fatty acids
Minerals
Vitamins
Notice that carbohydrates are not listed. Cats have essentially NO requirement for carbohydrates, deriving all of their energy needs from a diet rich in protein and fat. The only carbohydrates their ancestors ate were the vegetables in the digestive tracts of their prey, which were already “pre-digested.” These carbohydrates made up about 3-5 percent of the cats’ diet.
The metabolic requirement for glucose in your cat is derived from proteins (glucogenic amino acids) and fats (glycerol)—she has no mechanism for converting carbohydrates to energy, like dogs and humans do. This is why animal protein is so crucial for cats.
Cats need more protein than other carnivores.
One reason for this is, certain liver enzymes that break down proteins are always functional in cats (they are turned “on” and “off” in other animals). Therefore, your cat uses some energy merely to fuel this process, and that energy has to come from protein.
Two amino acids that are particularly important for your cat are arginine and taurine. Cats lack the enzyme that allows them to convert other amino acids into arginine, so they must obtain this from their diet. Cats use taurine alone for bile salt synthesis, so they need much more of this than other animals.
The secondary source of energy for cats is fat. Cats require more fat than dogs or humans—it is recommended that 15 to 40 percent of the energy content of your cat’s diet be derived from fat.
Unlike proteins, excess fat can be wasted/excreted by your cat’s system; therefore, it’s not a burden to her kidneys. Consequently, as a cat enters her senior years, the fat content of her diet should be increased somewhat while the protein is decreased proportionately. This way, the proper energy content is maintained while easing the burden on her aging kidneys. 1
Even your cats’ physical organ structure reflects her highly specialized digestive system.
She has a fairly small stomach and small, short intestine, because her diet is supposed to be concentrated, highly digestible, and low in residue—i.e., mostly protein. When she eats an excess of carbohydrates, much of the food is only partially digested by the time it reaches the large intestine for fecal formation, overloading the digestive and excretory systems. 2
What’s In Your Bag of Cat Food?
Now, take a look at the label on that bag of dry cat food in your pantry. Even if you have a “reputable” brand, chances are it has a fair amount of vegetable-derived carbohydrate and grain ingredients:
Corn
Wheat
Rice
Soy
One primary reason is that it’s hard to make a dry kibble without those things. Typical dry foods are 35-40 percent carbohydrate, and some are as high as 50 percent.
So, you’ve been feeding your precious felines a diet lower in protein, lower in moisture, and higher in carbohydrate than what they are biologically designed to eat.
The end result?
Cats now share one major health problem with their human companions: obesity.
The Dangers of Obesity
Twenty five to 33 percent of cats are overweight or obese. In fact, obesity is the most common nutritional disorder among dogs and cats in the United States today.
In addition to dietary factors, neutered or spayed cats actually require about 25-30 percent fewer calories than non-neutered. There is some evidence that neutering might lead to disordered leptin control of body fat in male cats. Just like you and me, cats store excess carbohydrates as fat.
I’m not suggesting you shouldn’t neuter your Tom, but you should adjust his diet appropriately.
Obese kitties are at risk for:
Diabetes
Joint problems
Heart disease
Lower urinary tract diseases
FHL (Feline Hepatic Lipodosis, aka “fatty liver syndrome”)
Kidney problems, and
Skin conditions
The majority of diabetes in cats is type II, at 65 percent, whereas in dogs, the overwhelming majority is type I diabetes (insulin-dependent). Since it is known that type II diabetes can be controlled and even prevented through diet, you have a very good chance of preventing your cat from developing this condition with the right choice of diet.
Excessive carbohydrates is directly linked to diabetes in cats. Carbohydrates break down into sugar, and sugar stresses your cat’s pancreas. Your kitty’s pancreas is designed to secrete insulin to balance the blood sugar, but when you’re feeding him an excessive amount of carbohydrates, which shouldn’t really be in the foods in the first place, diabetes can result.
High carbohydrate diets can lead to serious bladder problems for your kitty. Excessive carbs cause alkalization of your cat’s urine, which causes crystals cystitis and painful inflammation of the bladder.
Kidney and bladder stones can also occur from feeding your kitty food he wasn’t biologically designed to consume. In fact, the leading cause of death of cats in the United States is kidney failure.
Important Concerns Regarding the Overweight Kitty
Overweight cats have one particularly important health caution when it comes to diet and weight loss that I must mention, because it can be life-threatening. It is called Feline Hepatic Lipidosis (FHL, aka “Fatty Liver Syndrome”) and is characterized by excess fat accumulation in the liver of cats.
Fatty Liver Syndrome is the most common form of liver disease in cats in North America, and it is unique to felines.
It can occur in cats of any age or breed, and it occurs after a period of anorexia (loss of appetite) of a few days’ to a few weeks’ duration. After a few days without adequate food, the cat’s body will begin to use fat for energy. Cats do not metabolize fat well; therefore, the fat cells build up in the liver and rapidly prevent it from functioning normally. It isn’t long before the liver shuts down completely, which is life threatening if left untreated.
The cat developing FHL will begin to feel sick, which further suppresses his appetite, which accelerates the problem into a vicious cycle. Symptoms commonly seen with FHL are anorexia, weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, jaundice (yellow tinge to the skin, inside of the ears, and gums), and occasionally behavioral or neurological signs such as excessive drooling, blindness, coma or seizures.
Are You Feeding Your Cat High Quality Protein?
Another issue you have to contend with is the quality of the protein found in commercial cat foods.
Initially, proteins used in cat foods were from fresh, living, whole sources. But in time, as with all big business, the almighty dollar demanded cheap substitutes. This is when rendering entered the scene.
Rendering is the recycling of animal remains into usable material. It involves cooking down raw animal parts to separate out the moisture and fat. Rendering plants are like giant recycling kitchens, boiling down the carcasses of everything from road kill, dead and diseased farm animals, poultry waste and supermarket rejects.
When you see ingredients such as meat meal, fishmeal, poultry meal, meat by-products, tallow, beef fat, chicken fat, etc—these came from a rendering plant, which were then sold to feed industries, including pet food manufacturers.
Rendered means “not for human consumption.”
As important as recycling is today, the problem comes from the contaminants that go into the mix. Rendering plants are unavoidably processing toxic waste.
Animals are frequently tossed into “the pit” with flea collars still on, so you have insecticides going in. Pharmaceuticals given to livestock, euthanasia drugs given to pets, and heavy metals from pet ID tags, surgical pins and needles, and a variety of plastic ends up in the toxic soup. Every week, millions of packages of expired plastic-wrapped meat go through the rendering process and become one of the unwanted ingredients in animal feed.
Obviously, this recycled, ultra processed matter does not offer your kitty much in terms of nutritional value, and the sad fact is that rendered material exists in more than 90 percent of cat foods on the market today.
There is some good news, however.
There are a few smaller companies who offer quality cat food made with human-grade ingredients. They are a bit harder to find, but they’re out there. If you are in love with your current pet food and the label looks decent, I suggest you call the company and simply ask if the food is approved for human consumption. That’s a good start.
Canned or Dry?
From the perspective of moisture content, canned food is by far superior to dry food in meeting your cat’s needs, for the reasons discussed in the previous section about moisture content. Of course, we’re used to convenience, and it’s really easy and quick to scoop some kibble into a dish and leave it out, and expect our kitties to thrive.
Unfortunately, this is a convenience we need to break.
Dry food has been touted to be the saver of cat’s teeth. Supposedly, chewing the dry food cleans their teeth. However, this has not proven true since most cats swallow dry food whole, chewing very little of it, and what does get chewed often gets stuck between their teeth due to the type of jaw motion cats have. There, it ferments, causing dental problems.
In general, canned food is also higher in protein than dry kibble. The carbohydrate isn’t needed for “structural” purposes. Since your kitty doesn’t need the carbs for nutrition, this is just one more reason that canned food is better for him.
I challenge you to gradually wean your kitty onto a high quality, human-grade canned cat food. It is important to do this in a gentle way since cats don’t respond well to a mandate. It requires patience. But the benefit to your kitty’s health and happiness will be so worth the time and effort.
Once your cat is eating human-grade canned food, consider weaning him or her onto a balanced raw food diet. This is the most biologically appropriate food you could offer your cat.
What to Look For in Your Cat Chow
The canned food should be USDA-inspected and declared safe for human consumption, and it should contain essentially no carbohydrates (less than 3-5 percent). Here are some other considerations:
The use of by-products: Heads, feet, bones, tendons, ligaments, intestines and other unsavory body parts can all be labelled “protein,” but are inferior sources of protein and difficult to digest. This means less nutrition and more clean up.
Chemical preservatives and artificial colors: BHA, BHT, and ethoxoquin can be very harmful to pets. Artificial colors are also linked to health problems.
Grains: Corn, soy, wheat gluten and corn gluten are often used instead of meat, but are nothing more than cheap fillers and are difficult for your cat to digest.
Freshness: Many large manufacturers make pet food in huge batches formulated to last for a very long time, so you may be buying food that has been sitting on warehouse shelves for six months to a year.
Cooking Method: Often companies use rigorous cooking techniques that destroy most of the beneficial nutrients—just like when you boil vegetables to death. The result is poor nutritional quality.
Now, look at the first five ingredients. These play a significant role in the nutritional make-up of the food. Ask yourself these questions:
What are the protein sources? The primary source should come from quality animal protein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients might have more vegetable protein than animal protein, which is not as good for your cat.
What are the fat sources? The primary fat source should be animal-based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus generally more bioavailable to your cat.
Are there by-products? You don’t want any of those!
Are there other health-promoting ingredients? Vegetables and fruits, antioxidants, chelated minerals, bacteria cultures (probiotics), eggs, and essential fatty acids seed meal are excellent things to find in the ingredient list.
However, cats can’t convert ALA to EFA/DHA, so make sure it does not contain flax (unless you need to bulk up your pet’s stool).
You might need to call the manufacturer to get answers to some of these questions, since there is limited information on the label. Any company worth their salt should be happy to have a representative speak with you. Cats should be fed two to three times per day (consult your holistic vet if your cat has health problems). The days of the all-you-can-eat kitty buffet have come to an end.
To stimulate your cat’s desire to try new foods, you have to create a little bit of hunger throughout the day. Cats were meant to fast between meals, so these periods of hunger are actually good for their metabolism (although Sylvester will undoubtedly try to convince you he is close to dying of a cruel and painful starvation). Start by picking up your cat’s bowl in between 2-3 square meals a day. After your cat is regimented to twice daily feeding, begin slowly mixing in new foods with their old diet. With persistence and help from your holistic veterinarian, you can successfully wean your cat onto a healthier diet.
Don’t give in, no matter what! You KNOW how persuasive he can be. There are times your cat will want you to believe he is on his last, dying breath—especially if he’s been free-feeding and has forgotten what hunger feels like--but this will pass as he adjusts to his new routine. Don’t feed your cat when he’s begging for food…stick to feeding your 2-3 meals a day or you’ll only create a monster! By lovingly, yet firmly sticking to your commitment to improve your cat’s diet you can successfully wean you cat onto healthier food and create a healthier future for your feline friend.
Unwilling to end the hunt so easily, the Mighty Hunter tosses it into the air, letting it fly, again and again, down to the ground and up again, letting it fall to the earth and scamper free.
Just when Little Gray thinks it’s crafted an escape, it’s captured again. When Little Gray finally gasps its last breath, the Mighty Hunter revels in his moonlight snack.
Chances are, since you’re reading this article, you’re a cat owner and the above scenario rings a familiar bell. Why do cats display this perpetual hunting behavior, despite having a full bowl of kibble inside?
Cats were simply created to catch and kill prey. They are hard-wired that way.
House cats descended from their carnivorous wildcat ancestors who roamed the desert plains of Africa, feeding on mice and other small mammals. They have sharp, interlocking canines built for grasping, puncturing and tearing animal flesh. Their jaws are hinged to move up and down, unlike herbivores such as cows and horses whose jaws move side to side, performing a grinding motion that breaks apart fibrous material.
The first documentation we have of cat domestication is from Egypt, where they used them in granaries to keep mouse populations down.
Gradually, over the last thousand years, kitties have warmed their way into our hearts and through our front doors. We discovered what lovely companions they could be. Although they no longer have to fend for themselves, their transition from the wild has not been altogether helpful to their overall health, sadly enough.
It wasn’t until the early 1900s that we produced the first bag of cat food, more for our own convenience than the well being of our feline friends, whose digestive systems were designed to process live meat, a far cry from dry kibble.
The cat is more than a carnivore—she is an obligate carnivore. To survive, the cat must eat meat.
Basic Cat Nutritional Requirements
Cats, like all animals, require six classes of nutrients:
Water
Energy
Protein
Essential fatty acids
Minerals
Vitamins
Notice that carbohydrates are not listed. Cats have essentially NO requirement for carbohydrates, deriving all of their energy needs from a diet rich in protein and fat. The only carbohydrates their ancestors ate were the vegetables in the digestive tracts of their prey, which were already “pre-digested.” These carbohydrates made up about 3-5 percent of the cats’ diet.
The metabolic requirement for glucose in your cat is derived from proteins (glucogenic amino acids) and fats (glycerol)—she has no mechanism for converting carbohydrates to energy, like dogs and humans do. This is why animal protein is so crucial for cats.
Cats need more protein than other carnivores.
One reason for this is, certain liver enzymes that break down proteins are always functional in cats (they are turned “on” and “off” in other animals). Therefore, your cat uses some energy merely to fuel this process, and that energy has to come from protein.
Two amino acids that are particularly important for your cat are arginine and taurine. Cats lack the enzyme that allows them to convert other amino acids into arginine, so they must obtain this from their diet. Cats use taurine alone for bile salt synthesis, so they need much more of this than other animals.
The secondary source of energy for cats is fat. Cats require more fat than dogs or humans—it is recommended that 15 to 40 percent of the energy content of your cat’s diet be derived from fat.
Unlike proteins, excess fat can be wasted/excreted by your cat’s system; therefore, it’s not a burden to her kidneys. Consequently, as a cat enters her senior years, the fat content of her diet should be increased somewhat while the protein is decreased proportionately. This way, the proper energy content is maintained while easing the burden on her aging kidneys. 1
Even your cats’ physical organ structure reflects her highly specialized digestive system.
She has a fairly small stomach and small, short intestine, because her diet is supposed to be concentrated, highly digestible, and low in residue—i.e., mostly protein. When she eats an excess of carbohydrates, much of the food is only partially digested by the time it reaches the large intestine for fecal formation, overloading the digestive and excretory systems. 2
What’s In Your Bag of Cat Food?
Now, take a look at the label on that bag of dry cat food in your pantry. Even if you have a “reputable” brand, chances are it has a fair amount of vegetable-derived carbohydrate and grain ingredients:
Corn
Wheat
Rice
Soy
One primary reason is that it’s hard to make a dry kibble without those things. Typical dry foods are 35-40 percent carbohydrate, and some are as high as 50 percent.
So, you’ve been feeding your precious felines a diet lower in protein, lower in moisture, and higher in carbohydrate than what they are biologically designed to eat.
The end result?
Cats now share one major health problem with their human companions: obesity.
The Dangers of Obesity
Twenty five to 33 percent of cats are overweight or obese. In fact, obesity is the most common nutritional disorder among dogs and cats in the United States today.
In addition to dietary factors, neutered or spayed cats actually require about 25-30 percent fewer calories than non-neutered. There is some evidence that neutering might lead to disordered leptin control of body fat in male cats. Just like you and me, cats store excess carbohydrates as fat.
I’m not suggesting you shouldn’t neuter your Tom, but you should adjust his diet appropriately.
Obese kitties are at risk for:
Diabetes
Joint problems
Heart disease
Lower urinary tract diseases
FHL (Feline Hepatic Lipodosis, aka “fatty liver syndrome”)
Kidney problems, and
Skin conditions
The majority of diabetes in cats is type II, at 65 percent, whereas in dogs, the overwhelming majority is type I diabetes (insulin-dependent). Since it is known that type II diabetes can be controlled and even prevented through diet, you have a very good chance of preventing your cat from developing this condition with the right choice of diet.
Excessive carbohydrates is directly linked to diabetes in cats. Carbohydrates break down into sugar, and sugar stresses your cat’s pancreas. Your kitty’s pancreas is designed to secrete insulin to balance the blood sugar, but when you’re feeding him an excessive amount of carbohydrates, which shouldn’t really be in the foods in the first place, diabetes can result.
High carbohydrate diets can lead to serious bladder problems for your kitty. Excessive carbs cause alkalization of your cat’s urine, which causes crystals cystitis and painful inflammation of the bladder.
Kidney and bladder stones can also occur from feeding your kitty food he wasn’t biologically designed to consume. In fact, the leading cause of death of cats in the United States is kidney failure.
Important Concerns Regarding the Overweight Kitty
Overweight cats have one particularly important health caution when it comes to diet and weight loss that I must mention, because it can be life-threatening. It is called Feline Hepatic Lipidosis (FHL, aka “Fatty Liver Syndrome”) and is characterized by excess fat accumulation in the liver of cats.
Fatty Liver Syndrome is the most common form of liver disease in cats in North America, and it is unique to felines.
It can occur in cats of any age or breed, and it occurs after a period of anorexia (loss of appetite) of a few days’ to a few weeks’ duration. After a few days without adequate food, the cat’s body will begin to use fat for energy. Cats do not metabolize fat well; therefore, the fat cells build up in the liver and rapidly prevent it from functioning normally. It isn’t long before the liver shuts down completely, which is life threatening if left untreated.
The cat developing FHL will begin to feel sick, which further suppresses his appetite, which accelerates the problem into a vicious cycle. Symptoms commonly seen with FHL are anorexia, weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, jaundice (yellow tinge to the skin, inside of the ears, and gums), and occasionally behavioral or neurological signs such as excessive drooling, blindness, coma or seizures.
Are You Feeding Your Cat High Quality Protein?
Another issue you have to contend with is the quality of the protein found in commercial cat foods.
Initially, proteins used in cat foods were from fresh, living, whole sources. But in time, as with all big business, the almighty dollar demanded cheap substitutes. This is when rendering entered the scene.
Rendering is the recycling of animal remains into usable material. It involves cooking down raw animal parts to separate out the moisture and fat. Rendering plants are like giant recycling kitchens, boiling down the carcasses of everything from road kill, dead and diseased farm animals, poultry waste and supermarket rejects.
When you see ingredients such as meat meal, fishmeal, poultry meal, meat by-products, tallow, beef fat, chicken fat, etc—these came from a rendering plant, which were then sold to feed industries, including pet food manufacturers.
Rendered means “not for human consumption.”
As important as recycling is today, the problem comes from the contaminants that go into the mix. Rendering plants are unavoidably processing toxic waste.
Animals are frequently tossed into “the pit” with flea collars still on, so you have insecticides going in. Pharmaceuticals given to livestock, euthanasia drugs given to pets, and heavy metals from pet ID tags, surgical pins and needles, and a variety of plastic ends up in the toxic soup. Every week, millions of packages of expired plastic-wrapped meat go through the rendering process and become one of the unwanted ingredients in animal feed.
Obviously, this recycled, ultra processed matter does not offer your kitty much in terms of nutritional value, and the sad fact is that rendered material exists in more than 90 percent of cat foods on the market today.
There is some good news, however.
There are a few smaller companies who offer quality cat food made with human-grade ingredients. They are a bit harder to find, but they’re out there. If you are in love with your current pet food and the label looks decent, I suggest you call the company and simply ask if the food is approved for human consumption. That’s a good start.
Canned or Dry?
From the perspective of moisture content, canned food is by far superior to dry food in meeting your cat’s needs, for the reasons discussed in the previous section about moisture content. Of course, we’re used to convenience, and it’s really easy and quick to scoop some kibble into a dish and leave it out, and expect our kitties to thrive.
Unfortunately, this is a convenience we need to break.
Dry food has been touted to be the saver of cat’s teeth. Supposedly, chewing the dry food cleans their teeth. However, this has not proven true since most cats swallow dry food whole, chewing very little of it, and what does get chewed often gets stuck between their teeth due to the type of jaw motion cats have. There, it ferments, causing dental problems.
In general, canned food is also higher in protein than dry kibble. The carbohydrate isn’t needed for “structural” purposes. Since your kitty doesn’t need the carbs for nutrition, this is just one more reason that canned food is better for him.
I challenge you to gradually wean your kitty onto a high quality, human-grade canned cat food. It is important to do this in a gentle way since cats don’t respond well to a mandate. It requires patience. But the benefit to your kitty’s health and happiness will be so worth the time and effort.
Once your cat is eating human-grade canned food, consider weaning him or her onto a balanced raw food diet. This is the most biologically appropriate food you could offer your cat.
What to Look For in Your Cat Chow
The canned food should be USDA-inspected and declared safe for human consumption, and it should contain essentially no carbohydrates (less than 3-5 percent). Here are some other considerations:
The use of by-products: Heads, feet, bones, tendons, ligaments, intestines and other unsavory body parts can all be labelled “protein,” but are inferior sources of protein and difficult to digest. This means less nutrition and more clean up.
Chemical preservatives and artificial colors: BHA, BHT, and ethoxoquin can be very harmful to pets. Artificial colors are also linked to health problems.
Grains: Corn, soy, wheat gluten and corn gluten are often used instead of meat, but are nothing more than cheap fillers and are difficult for your cat to digest.
Freshness: Many large manufacturers make pet food in huge batches formulated to last for a very long time, so you may be buying food that has been sitting on warehouse shelves for six months to a year.
Cooking Method: Often companies use rigorous cooking techniques that destroy most of the beneficial nutrients—just like when you boil vegetables to death. The result is poor nutritional quality.
Now, look at the first five ingredients. These play a significant role in the nutritional make-up of the food. Ask yourself these questions:
What are the protein sources? The primary source should come from quality animal protein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients might have more vegetable protein than animal protein, which is not as good for your cat.
What are the fat sources? The primary fat source should be animal-based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus generally more bioavailable to your cat.
Are there by-products? You don’t want any of those!
Are there other health-promoting ingredients? Vegetables and fruits, antioxidants, chelated minerals, bacteria cultures (probiotics), eggs, and essential fatty acids seed meal are excellent things to find in the ingredient list.
However, cats can’t convert ALA to EFA/DHA, so make sure it does not contain flax (unless you need to bulk up your pet’s stool).
You might need to call the manufacturer to get answers to some of these questions, since there is limited information on the label. Any company worth their salt should be happy to have a representative speak with you. Cats should be fed two to three times per day (consult your holistic vet if your cat has health problems). The days of the all-you-can-eat kitty buffet have come to an end.
To stimulate your cat’s desire to try new foods, you have to create a little bit of hunger throughout the day. Cats were meant to fast between meals, so these periods of hunger are actually good for their metabolism (although Sylvester will undoubtedly try to convince you he is close to dying of a cruel and painful starvation). Start by picking up your cat’s bowl in between 2-3 square meals a day. After your cat is regimented to twice daily feeding, begin slowly mixing in new foods with their old diet. With persistence and help from your holistic veterinarian, you can successfully wean your cat onto a healthier diet.
Don’t give in, no matter what! You KNOW how persuasive he can be. There are times your cat will want you to believe he is on his last, dying breath—especially if he’s been free-feeding and has forgotten what hunger feels like--but this will pass as he adjusts to his new routine. Don’t feed your cat when he’s begging for food…stick to feeding your 2-3 meals a day or you’ll only create a monster! By lovingly, yet firmly sticking to your commitment to improve your cat’s diet you can successfully wean you cat onto healthier food and create a healthier future for your feline friend.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Study: Cats control you with meows!
Researcher: Cats have learned to adapt their cries
Updated: Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:50 AM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:49 AM EDT
By LILY FU, Special Contributor
You may think your cat sees you as its owner, but a new study finds that the cat owns you.
LiveScience.com reports that many cats use a kind of meow that's a mix of a purr and a high-pitched cry when they want to be fed. Unlike other meows, many people find this kind of cry difficult to ignore.
"The embedding of a cry within a call that we normally associate with contentment is quite a subtle means of eliciting a response," said Karen McComb of the University of Sussex, who conducted the study. "Solicitation purring is probably more acceptable to humans than overt meowing, which is likely to get cats ejected from the bedroom."
Researchers collected 10 cat cries from different owners. They were then played back for 50 people, not all of whom owned cats. The majority of people found the high-pitched meow mixed with the purr as more urgent and less pleasant as compared to the cries that didn't have the underlying purr.
McComb said she believes that humans are wired to respond to the cries of human babies -- when babies cry, people come to their aid as part of a nurturing instinct. Cats have learned to adapt their cries so that they make it difficult for humans to ignore as they can't with human baby cries.
Cats may have the same method of getting what they want. But they don't all sound the same. The cat in the video below has a very interesting way of saying "hello."
Updated: Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:50 AM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:49 AM EDT
By LILY FU, Special Contributor
You may think your cat sees you as its owner, but a new study finds that the cat owns you.
LiveScience.com reports that many cats use a kind of meow that's a mix of a purr and a high-pitched cry when they want to be fed. Unlike other meows, many people find this kind of cry difficult to ignore.
"The embedding of a cry within a call that we normally associate with contentment is quite a subtle means of eliciting a response," said Karen McComb of the University of Sussex, who conducted the study. "Solicitation purring is probably more acceptable to humans than overt meowing, which is likely to get cats ejected from the bedroom."
Researchers collected 10 cat cries from different owners. They were then played back for 50 people, not all of whom owned cats. The majority of people found the high-pitched meow mixed with the purr as more urgent and less pleasant as compared to the cries that didn't have the underlying purr.
McComb said she believes that humans are wired to respond to the cries of human babies -- when babies cry, people come to their aid as part of a nurturing instinct. Cats have learned to adapt their cries so that they make it difficult for humans to ignore as they can't with human baby cries.
Cats may have the same method of getting what they want. But they don't all sound the same. The cat in the video below has a very interesting way of saying "hello."
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Pets, Protein, Dry Food and Disease
If you’re like most pet owners, your four-legged companion is a beloved member of your family. And just like the humans in your household, you want to give your pet every opportunity for a long and healthy life.
What you might not know is that despite advertising claims, the majority of commercial pet foods are not optimally healthy for your dog or cat. Just as most processed, convenient “people food” is devoid of nutritional value, so is much of the dead, dry pet food sold commercially today.
The pet nutrition industry is very similar to the human food industry – full of hype and false claims, peddling inferior nutritional choices. Much of the so-called “healthy pet foods” on the market contain inferior meat meals, cheap grains like corn and soy, fillers, by-products, food coloring, pesticides, preservatives, and other contaminations.
Case in point: the widespread contamination of melamine (a chemical used in the production of plastics, which imitates protein) rocked the pet food industry not so long ago, and led to thousands of deaths and illnesses. More than 5,600 products by dozens of pet food makers – everything from cheap supermarket brands to prescription-only food – were recalled in the process.
Good nutrition is a fundamental requirement to keep your pet in top physical shape, and improve his or her chances of resisting disease and other degenerative conditions. And when it comes to protein levels and organ health, the more we learn, the more we realize how little we knew before.
Many Commercially Available Pet Foods Can Destroy Your Pet’s Health
“Pet” foods are actually a relatively new addition to the marketplace, only filling a consumer niche for the last 100 years or so. Many proactive, integrative and holistic veterinarians have long recognized the short falls of many commercially available pet foods.
Unfortunately, most widely available pet foods and even many of the brands conventional vets recommend do not contain clean, inspected ingredients, nor are they biologically balanced for your domesticated carnivore (cat) and scavenging carnivore (dog).
Common symptoms associated with regular consumption of commercial pet foods include:
Diarrhea
Increased flatulence
Dull coat
Intermittent vomiting
Prolonged scratching
During the 1980’s and early 1990’s, frustration with low quality food led to the emergence of improved dry pet foods. This higher quality kibble was baked rather than extruded, and contained more diverse ingredients and USDA inspected meats.
During this time pet owners also began to realize the benefits of home cooked diets, where they could control the quantity and quality of ingredients added to their pets’ meals.
However, although these changes addressed some of the quality control issues, and began to address the biological appropriateness of pet food ingredients, it did not address the fact that companion animals were still consuming an entirely dead diet, devoid of all the benefits living foods have to offer.
Dogs and cats evolved to consume living, unprocessed foods, and once you remove the raw food, you disrupt nearly every important biochemical pathway in their body. This is a prescription for disaster, and maintaining your pet on completely cooked and refined foods can clearly impact their organ health.
In fact, a growing number of veterinarians state that processed pet food (kibbled and canned food) is the number one cause of illness and premature death in modern dogs and cats.
In December 1995, the British Journal of Small Animal Practice published a paper contending that processed pet food suppresses animals’ immune systems, and causes:
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Heart disease
Other diseases
Another case in point: In one animal study, performed by Dr. Kollath of the Karolinska Hospital in Stockholm, young animals that were fed cooked and processed foods initially appeared to be healthy. But once they reached adulthood, they began aging quicker than normal and developed degenerative disease symptoms. A control group raised on raw foods aged less quickly and did not develop any degenerative diseases!
Why Your Pet Needs RAW Food
The introduction of commercially available raw food diets in the late ‘90’s offered tremendous additional health benefits to pets everywhere, because many varieties combined USDA inspected meats with human edible-quality vegetables and fewer grains, which is more biologically appropriate.
Several AAFCO approved homemade recipes also became available and contained options for living food additions. To argue whether raw food diets are appropriate for dogs and cats is moot; they have thrived consuming a variety of small prey for thousands of years!
Wild animals also avoid many of the degenerative health issues that plague our current domestic pet population. To suppose that your pet’s health would suffer any less than your own from consuming a highly processed diet, filled with corn and other denatured ingredients, would simply be foolhardy.
Knowledgeable veterinarians have wisely forfeited the concept that cats can become trendy, healthy vegetarians and that dogs can thrive on an entirely grain-based diet. Most of us have the desire to match, as closely as possible, our companions’ current diet to their ancestral diet. This should be common sense.
Of course, this should also be our first choice for our patients, as veterinarians.
The Two Main Problems with a Dry Food Diet
The biggest concern I hear about not feeding dry food is, “But what about their teeth?”
Remember: eating crunchy granola doesn’t brush or clean your teeth. You have to brush your teeth. Likewise, eating crunchy kibble doesn’t brush or clean your pet’s teeth. You still have to brush your pet’s teeth. So please don’t use this rationale to feed your pet a diet of mainly dry foods.
There are the two major problems with an entirely dry food diet.
Protein quality
Moisture content
Protein quality -- For years, protein got a really bad rap. More recently, proactive veterinarians have tried to re-educate pet owners about protein, protein quality, and protein requirements. Contrary to popular belief, protein requirements actually increase as pets age to combat catabolic processes, which can lead to muscle wasting. We have also learned that the biological availability of certain protein sources actually determines how easy or difficult they are to metabolize. For example, snouts and feathers, although 100 percent protein, are not nearly as digestible as lean muscle meat.
The quality of protein your pet eats is critical to reduce organ stress over time. The scary truth is that the majority of commercial pet foods on the market today are using rendered meats that are not approved for human consumption. Because kibbled foods made with these poor quality meats are so difficult to digest and assimilate, they can actually cause organ disease.
Moisture content -- Moisture content is another problem inherent in a mainly dry food diet. Our carnivorous companions were designed to consume non-dehydrated foods. Species appropriate diets -- foods free of corn, wheat, rice and soy -- formulated in their biologically correct form, meaning raw or minimally processed, with non-denatured proteins, contain all of the moisture needed to process the food with minimum metabolic stress.
Did you know that the natural diet of dogs and cats is up to 70 percent water?
That’s right: rabbits and mice, like our bodies, are primarily composed of water. Our pet’s bodies have evolved to consume a diet that is rich with water, not dehydrated, and not cooked.
When food is cooked and dehydrated (which is how kibble is produced), several things happen, the most detrimental of which is that the food becomes dry. Far too dry to be healthy.
This requires your pet’s body to provide sufficient moisture to reconstitute the food in their digestive tract. Although some animals may make a noble effort to consume enough water, many animals, and most cats, don’t.
The Association of Feline Practitioners recommends owners feed cats a diet of primarily canned foods (vs. dry foods) for this very reason.
What are the most notable physiologic changes when our companion animals consume a dehydrated, poor quality protein diet?
Kidney stress
Liver stress
Metabolic stress
A lifetime of minor dehydration is stressful to multiple organ systems, but most notably the kidneys. It’s important to realize that this can easily be remedied by feeding canned or living food diets, and can easily be avoided by feeding foods that have not been dehydrated (dry food).
Diet Recommendations
The convenient alternative to our pet’s ancestral diet looks great at first glance, but poses significant health risks if fed as a sole diet indefinitely. Remember, our pet’s bodies are resilient. They can eat a variety of suboptimal, metabolically stressful foods on occasion and be fine, but because it’s our goal to provide a diet that most closely fits our companion’s biological requirements, we don’t recommend a lifetime of kibble.
Our goal is to provide a diet that mimics our pets biological nutritional requirements as closely as possible…in this case it means rethinking the “lifetime of dry food” theory. Thankfully, we can make one healthy lifestyle change at a time, which optimizes our pet’s chances of achieving abundant health.
If you are unable or unwilling to feed your pet a species appropriate, nutritionally balanced, raw food diet, then I strongly recommend you compromise with the next best choice: USDA approved canned foods.
My last choice would be a dry food (kibble), made from human-grade ingredients with little to no grains, and LOTS OF WATER.
I’m not anti-kibble. But it’s important to recognize why you choose to feed kibble. Most pet owners feed kibble for convenience, or because your pets like it. But the truth is, it’s frequently not species appropriate, and can seriously damage your pet’s health.
Fortunately, once you recognize it’s not the healthiest choice for your companion it makes it easier to gently begin transitioning to a more biologically optimal food.
What you might not know is that despite advertising claims, the majority of commercial pet foods are not optimally healthy for your dog or cat. Just as most processed, convenient “people food” is devoid of nutritional value, so is much of the dead, dry pet food sold commercially today.
The pet nutrition industry is very similar to the human food industry – full of hype and false claims, peddling inferior nutritional choices. Much of the so-called “healthy pet foods” on the market contain inferior meat meals, cheap grains like corn and soy, fillers, by-products, food coloring, pesticides, preservatives, and other contaminations.
Case in point: the widespread contamination of melamine (a chemical used in the production of plastics, which imitates protein) rocked the pet food industry not so long ago, and led to thousands of deaths and illnesses. More than 5,600 products by dozens of pet food makers – everything from cheap supermarket brands to prescription-only food – were recalled in the process.
Good nutrition is a fundamental requirement to keep your pet in top physical shape, and improve his or her chances of resisting disease and other degenerative conditions. And when it comes to protein levels and organ health, the more we learn, the more we realize how little we knew before.
Many Commercially Available Pet Foods Can Destroy Your Pet’s Health
“Pet” foods are actually a relatively new addition to the marketplace, only filling a consumer niche for the last 100 years or so. Many proactive, integrative and holistic veterinarians have long recognized the short falls of many commercially available pet foods.
Unfortunately, most widely available pet foods and even many of the brands conventional vets recommend do not contain clean, inspected ingredients, nor are they biologically balanced for your domesticated carnivore (cat) and scavenging carnivore (dog).
Common symptoms associated with regular consumption of commercial pet foods include:
Diarrhea
Increased flatulence
Dull coat
Intermittent vomiting
Prolonged scratching
During the 1980’s and early 1990’s, frustration with low quality food led to the emergence of improved dry pet foods. This higher quality kibble was baked rather than extruded, and contained more diverse ingredients and USDA inspected meats.
During this time pet owners also began to realize the benefits of home cooked diets, where they could control the quantity and quality of ingredients added to their pets’ meals.
However, although these changes addressed some of the quality control issues, and began to address the biological appropriateness of pet food ingredients, it did not address the fact that companion animals were still consuming an entirely dead diet, devoid of all the benefits living foods have to offer.
Dogs and cats evolved to consume living, unprocessed foods, and once you remove the raw food, you disrupt nearly every important biochemical pathway in their body. This is a prescription for disaster, and maintaining your pet on completely cooked and refined foods can clearly impact their organ health.
In fact, a growing number of veterinarians state that processed pet food (kibbled and canned food) is the number one cause of illness and premature death in modern dogs and cats.
In December 1995, the British Journal of Small Animal Practice published a paper contending that processed pet food suppresses animals’ immune systems, and causes:
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Heart disease
Other diseases
Another case in point: In one animal study, performed by Dr. Kollath of the Karolinska Hospital in Stockholm, young animals that were fed cooked and processed foods initially appeared to be healthy. But once they reached adulthood, they began aging quicker than normal and developed degenerative disease symptoms. A control group raised on raw foods aged less quickly and did not develop any degenerative diseases!
Why Your Pet Needs RAW Food
The introduction of commercially available raw food diets in the late ‘90’s offered tremendous additional health benefits to pets everywhere, because many varieties combined USDA inspected meats with human edible-quality vegetables and fewer grains, which is more biologically appropriate.
Several AAFCO approved homemade recipes also became available and contained options for living food additions. To argue whether raw food diets are appropriate for dogs and cats is moot; they have thrived consuming a variety of small prey for thousands of years!
Wild animals also avoid many of the degenerative health issues that plague our current domestic pet population. To suppose that your pet’s health would suffer any less than your own from consuming a highly processed diet, filled with corn and other denatured ingredients, would simply be foolhardy.
Knowledgeable veterinarians have wisely forfeited the concept that cats can become trendy, healthy vegetarians and that dogs can thrive on an entirely grain-based diet. Most of us have the desire to match, as closely as possible, our companions’ current diet to their ancestral diet. This should be common sense.
Of course, this should also be our first choice for our patients, as veterinarians.
The Two Main Problems with a Dry Food Diet
The biggest concern I hear about not feeding dry food is, “But what about their teeth?”
Remember: eating crunchy granola doesn’t brush or clean your teeth. You have to brush your teeth. Likewise, eating crunchy kibble doesn’t brush or clean your pet’s teeth. You still have to brush your pet’s teeth. So please don’t use this rationale to feed your pet a diet of mainly dry foods.
There are the two major problems with an entirely dry food diet.
Protein quality
Moisture content
Protein quality -- For years, protein got a really bad rap. More recently, proactive veterinarians have tried to re-educate pet owners about protein, protein quality, and protein requirements. Contrary to popular belief, protein requirements actually increase as pets age to combat catabolic processes, which can lead to muscle wasting. We have also learned that the biological availability of certain protein sources actually determines how easy or difficult they are to metabolize. For example, snouts and feathers, although 100 percent protein, are not nearly as digestible as lean muscle meat.
The quality of protein your pet eats is critical to reduce organ stress over time. The scary truth is that the majority of commercial pet foods on the market today are using rendered meats that are not approved for human consumption. Because kibbled foods made with these poor quality meats are so difficult to digest and assimilate, they can actually cause organ disease.
Moisture content -- Moisture content is another problem inherent in a mainly dry food diet. Our carnivorous companions were designed to consume non-dehydrated foods. Species appropriate diets -- foods free of corn, wheat, rice and soy -- formulated in their biologically correct form, meaning raw or minimally processed, with non-denatured proteins, contain all of the moisture needed to process the food with minimum metabolic stress.
Did you know that the natural diet of dogs and cats is up to 70 percent water?
That’s right: rabbits and mice, like our bodies, are primarily composed of water. Our pet’s bodies have evolved to consume a diet that is rich with water, not dehydrated, and not cooked.
When food is cooked and dehydrated (which is how kibble is produced), several things happen, the most detrimental of which is that the food becomes dry. Far too dry to be healthy.
This requires your pet’s body to provide sufficient moisture to reconstitute the food in their digestive tract. Although some animals may make a noble effort to consume enough water, many animals, and most cats, don’t.
The Association of Feline Practitioners recommends owners feed cats a diet of primarily canned foods (vs. dry foods) for this very reason.
What are the most notable physiologic changes when our companion animals consume a dehydrated, poor quality protein diet?
Kidney stress
Liver stress
Metabolic stress
A lifetime of minor dehydration is stressful to multiple organ systems, but most notably the kidneys. It’s important to realize that this can easily be remedied by feeding canned or living food diets, and can easily be avoided by feeding foods that have not been dehydrated (dry food).
Diet Recommendations
The convenient alternative to our pet’s ancestral diet looks great at first glance, but poses significant health risks if fed as a sole diet indefinitely. Remember, our pet’s bodies are resilient. They can eat a variety of suboptimal, metabolically stressful foods on occasion and be fine, but because it’s our goal to provide a diet that most closely fits our companion’s biological requirements, we don’t recommend a lifetime of kibble.
Our goal is to provide a diet that mimics our pets biological nutritional requirements as closely as possible…in this case it means rethinking the “lifetime of dry food” theory. Thankfully, we can make one healthy lifestyle change at a time, which optimizes our pet’s chances of achieving abundant health.
If you are unable or unwilling to feed your pet a species appropriate, nutritionally balanced, raw food diet, then I strongly recommend you compromise with the next best choice: USDA approved canned foods.
My last choice would be a dry food (kibble), made from human-grade ingredients with little to no grains, and LOTS OF WATER.
I’m not anti-kibble. But it’s important to recognize why you choose to feed kibble. Most pet owners feed kibble for convenience, or because your pets like it. But the truth is, it’s frequently not species appropriate, and can seriously damage your pet’s health.
Fortunately, once you recognize it’s not the healthiest choice for your companion it makes it easier to gently begin transitioning to a more biologically optimal food.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
July 4th Fireworks Are No Blast For Pets
Returning home from a holiday celebration, Sharon Moore and her family discovered feces on their living room floor.
The sliding glass door to their backyard was open, and a hole had been dug under their fence.
The Moores were gone for only four hours, but D.O.G., their 2-year-old, aptly-named white German Shepherd, was gone. Left on her own to face the tumult of fireworks and loud celebrations, she escaped, apparently to seek the familiar—her family—even if she had no idea where to look.
"From what we can tell, when D.O.G. heard the fireworks she freaked out and pooped on the floor inside—for the first time ever—then she opened the sliding glass door with her paw, and dug a hole outside our fence.... She went searching for us," said Moore, of Maitland, Fla.
The Moores' search for D.O.G. ended when she was found dead alongside a road where she was often walked.
No Celebration
Moore believes that D.O.G., who wasn't normally scared of thunder or other loud noises, panicked from the cumulative effects of the fireworks, the excited voices outside, and being left alone inside the house.
The Moores' tragic loss isn't unique. Pets often become frightened and frantic by the noise and commotion of Independence Day. In fact, animal shelters across the country are accustomed to receiving "July 4th" dogs—dogs who run off during fireworks celebrations and are rescued by animal control officers or good samaritans who take them to the safety of a local shelter.
Leave Them At Home
Fortunately, preventing pet problems on Independence Day is possible by simply planning ahead and taking some basic precautions.
"With a little bit of planning and forethought, you can enjoy the excitement of the Fourth of July and know that your animal companion is safe, sound, and enjoying a little peace and quiet," said Nancy Peterson, an issues specialist with The Humane Society if the United States.
To protect your pet on the Fourth of July, take these precautions:
Resist the urge to take your pet to fireworks displays.
Do not leave your pet in the car. With only hot air to breathe inside a car, your pet can suffer serious health effects—even death—in a few short minutes. Partially opened windows do not provide sufficient air, but they do provide an opportunity for your pet to be stolen.
Keep your pets indoors at home in a sheltered, quiet area. Some animals can become destructive when frightened, so be sure that you've removed any items that your pet could destroy or that would be harmful to your pet if chewed. Leave a television or radio playing at normal volume to keep him company while you're attending Fourth of July picnics, parades, and other celebrations.
If you know that your pet is seriously distressed by loud noises like thunder, consult with your veterinarian before July 4th for ways to help alleviate the fear and anxiety he or she will experience during fireworks displays.
Never leave pets outside unattended, even in a fenced yard or on a chain. In their fear, pets who normally wouldn't leave the yard may escape and become lost, or become entangled in their chain, risking injury or death.
Make sure your pets are wearing identification tags so that if they do become lost, they can be returned promptly. Animals found running at-large should be taken to the local animal shelter, where they will have the best chance of being reunited with their owners.
If you plan to go away for the holiday weekend, read our information on Caring for Pets When You Travel.
If you follow these simple precautions, you and your pet can have a safe and happy Fourth of July.
The sliding glass door to their backyard was open, and a hole had been dug under their fence.
The Moores were gone for only four hours, but D.O.G., their 2-year-old, aptly-named white German Shepherd, was gone. Left on her own to face the tumult of fireworks and loud celebrations, she escaped, apparently to seek the familiar—her family—even if she had no idea where to look.
"From what we can tell, when D.O.G. heard the fireworks she freaked out and pooped on the floor inside—for the first time ever—then she opened the sliding glass door with her paw, and dug a hole outside our fence.... She went searching for us," said Moore, of Maitland, Fla.
The Moores' search for D.O.G. ended when she was found dead alongside a road where she was often walked.
No Celebration
Moore believes that D.O.G., who wasn't normally scared of thunder or other loud noises, panicked from the cumulative effects of the fireworks, the excited voices outside, and being left alone inside the house.
The Moores' tragic loss isn't unique. Pets often become frightened and frantic by the noise and commotion of Independence Day. In fact, animal shelters across the country are accustomed to receiving "July 4th" dogs—dogs who run off during fireworks celebrations and are rescued by animal control officers or good samaritans who take them to the safety of a local shelter.
Leave Them At Home
Fortunately, preventing pet problems on Independence Day is possible by simply planning ahead and taking some basic precautions.
"With a little bit of planning and forethought, you can enjoy the excitement of the Fourth of July and know that your animal companion is safe, sound, and enjoying a little peace and quiet," said Nancy Peterson, an issues specialist with The Humane Society if the United States.
To protect your pet on the Fourth of July, take these precautions:
Resist the urge to take your pet to fireworks displays.
Do not leave your pet in the car. With only hot air to breathe inside a car, your pet can suffer serious health effects—even death—in a few short minutes. Partially opened windows do not provide sufficient air, but they do provide an opportunity for your pet to be stolen.
Keep your pets indoors at home in a sheltered, quiet area. Some animals can become destructive when frightened, so be sure that you've removed any items that your pet could destroy or that would be harmful to your pet if chewed. Leave a television or radio playing at normal volume to keep him company while you're attending Fourth of July picnics, parades, and other celebrations.
If you know that your pet is seriously distressed by loud noises like thunder, consult with your veterinarian before July 4th for ways to help alleviate the fear and anxiety he or she will experience during fireworks displays.
Never leave pets outside unattended, even in a fenced yard or on a chain. In their fear, pets who normally wouldn't leave the yard may escape and become lost, or become entangled in their chain, risking injury or death.
Make sure your pets are wearing identification tags so that if they do become lost, they can be returned promptly. Animals found running at-large should be taken to the local animal shelter, where they will have the best chance of being reunited with their owners.
If you plan to go away for the holiday weekend, read our information on Caring for Pets When You Travel.
If you follow these simple precautions, you and your pet can have a safe and happy Fourth of July.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Does Your Pet Have Allergies? What You Need to Know and Do
Does your pet:
Sneeze and cough?
Have swollen paws or inflamed ears?
Have gastrointestinal upset?
It could be that allergies are wreaking havoc on their system.
Just like in people, your healthy pet’s immune system should react to bacteria and viruses by manufacturing antibodies that allow its body to mount an immune response against these unwelcome invaders (pathogens).
Your pet’s immune system also encounters hundreds of particles every day that are not harmful, rather are just part of the natural environment. Under normal circumstances, these substances (ragweed, grasses, pollens, molds, foods, etc.) should be recognized by the body but not be considered foreign invaders.
In the case of pet allergies, however, an over-active immune system processes and interprets common substances as a toxic assault. And when your pet’s body mounts an immune response to common, normally harmless substances, or allergens, allergic symptoms appear.
Food Allergies vs. Environmental Allergies
There are two types of allergic responses that pets can experience: food and environmental. Your companion can be allergic to one type of tree or every outdoor allergen, allergic to only wheat or every starch. Some pets even inherit sensitivities to certain foods and environmental factors, and in these cases often demonstrate allergic symptoms early in life.
For other pets, allergies are acquired over several years of continual exposure to the allergen.
What may your pet be allergic to?
The truth is, animals can react to anything in their environment -- even water is a possibility if it’s contaminated with impurities. Collar and bedding materials (cotton, etc.), cleaning supplies, household chemicals and dust mites are all relatively common household allergens that could cause your pet to have an allergic reaction.
As you’re trying to figure out what allergen is causing your pet a problem, keep in mind that some pets have both food and environmental allergies. If your pet itches during the spring, summer or fall, they are most likely reacting to something they are exposed to at that time. But if your pet continues to have allergic reactions after outdoor allergens have been buried under snow, it points more toward a non-seasonal, or year-round source of allergy, such as food.
That said, if you live in an environment that does not have a hard freeze in the winter, environmental allergens can really build up and cause year-round issues for our companions. Allergy testing can be done to determine what substances your pet is reacting to at that point in time. Allergy panels can yield very different results when conducted over several months, demonstrating that the immune system can over-react to many different substances at varying times of the year.
Why Feeding Your Pet One Food for a Lifetime May be Problematic
I commonly hear people say, “My pet can’t be allergic to her food, she’s been eating it her whole life.”
This is the point, exactly! Food allergies have been shown to occur more in pets that are fed only one food source for a prolonged period of time. Your pet’s immune system can become bombarded with the same allergens for so long that it begins to react negatively to the food source.
The foods most commonly found to be allergenic to dogs and cats are:
Wheat
Corn
Chicken
Beef
Surprising?
Not really, as dogs and cats were never meant to ingest foods containing such high amounts of carbohydrates (the average commercial dog food contains over 50% grains), and were certainly designed to consume more than one protein source over a lifetime!
If you suspect that your pet has a food allergy, a food trial, or allergy elimination diet, can help you figure out which foods are the problem.
Conducting an Allergy Elimination Diet
Once your companion has developed an allergic reaction to a substance, those reactive antigens can circulate in his bloodstream for up to 6 weeks, causing inflammation and irritation.
This means that an allergy elimination diet should last at least six weeks, sometimes longer (I recommend a full 3 months).
During this period, pets must not eat any foods or treats suspected of causing a reaction. A single bite of a problematic food can cause a flare up that lasts several days, so complete elimination is essential for the process to be successful.
After your pet has been given adequate time to clear the allergic substances from his body, new foods can be added slowly back in, as you watch the animal’s response after each food is added. Interestingly, many of the foods that were previously considered allergenic can often be incorporated into the diet once your pet’s body has had ample time to detoxify and clean out cellular debris.
Many holistic vets theorize that it’s not the actual food protein that causes the immune system to react but the chemicals and preservatives included in the foods that cause the problem. Although we can’t say for sure, this would explain why, after making the correct dietary changes, many pets can then consume foods that they were previously allergic to.
Allergy Symptoms Can be Diverse
It’s critical for pet owners to recognize that allergy symptoms are very diverse, and expand beyond the typical itching or sneezing. They include:
Itchy body
Red eyes
Nasal discharge
Oozy skin
Asthm
Coughing and sneezing
Inflamed ears
Swollen paws
Gastrointestinal disease (vomiting, diarrhea, gas, chronic hairball issues, anal gland problems)
What is the Best Treatment?
Because the symptoms of inflammation are produced from the inside out, ointments, shampoos, sprays and dips can only provide temporary relief and although are beneficial to use for improving your pet’s quality of life during a flare up, long-term treatment must focus on balancing your pet’s immune system.
Steroids (also called prednisone, cortisone or the nondescript “allergy shot”) are the least optimal treatment choice, as they work by suppressing your pet’s immune system. Steroids actually turn the immune system off, which improves the symptoms remarkably fast but doesn’t address the root issue of why your pet’s immune system is over-reacting in the first place.
Not only can steroids have a negative effect on your pet’s liver, adrenal glands and kidneys, but suppressing your pet’s immune system with steroids also allows for opportunistic yeast and bacteria to grow on your pet’s skin, sometimes increasing the chances that antibiotics may be prescribed.
Antibiotics increase the likelihood of yeast overgrowth, which causes your pet to:
Smell like a corn chip
Become insanely itchy, which sends you back to the vet for more steroids
Do you see the crazy cycle? The image below does a great job of explaining it further.
As an aside, keep in mind that healthy pets do not smell bad. Yeast exudes a musty smell, and if your pet smells this way he may have a problem with yeast overgrowth. Many people assume their pets should smell this way, but in reality healthy pets should only be bathed with they’re dirty -- not because they’re smelly.
Bathing smelly pets in oatmeal (a grain) shampoo often adds fuel to the fire, requiring the pet to be re-bathed multiple times a week in order for the owners to tolerate the pet’s odor.
Nutrition is the Optimal Solution
The foods you feed your pet will eventually heal or harm. Feeding pets healing, non-allergenic foods allows their immune systems to rest. Rebalancing your pet’s immune system by offering natural, biologically appropriate wholesome foods is necessary to begin the road to recovery. Also remember that the more variety you include in your pet’s diet, the less likely your pet will be to react to the same monotonous foods. Nutritional variety is not only the spice of life, it’s critical for a balanced and healthy immune response -- and for keeping your pet allergy-free.
Sneeze and cough?
Have swollen paws or inflamed ears?
Have gastrointestinal upset?
It could be that allergies are wreaking havoc on their system.
Just like in people, your healthy pet’s immune system should react to bacteria and viruses by manufacturing antibodies that allow its body to mount an immune response against these unwelcome invaders (pathogens).
Your pet’s immune system also encounters hundreds of particles every day that are not harmful, rather are just part of the natural environment. Under normal circumstances, these substances (ragweed, grasses, pollens, molds, foods, etc.) should be recognized by the body but not be considered foreign invaders.
In the case of pet allergies, however, an over-active immune system processes and interprets common substances as a toxic assault. And when your pet’s body mounts an immune response to common, normally harmless substances, or allergens, allergic symptoms appear.
Food Allergies vs. Environmental Allergies
There are two types of allergic responses that pets can experience: food and environmental. Your companion can be allergic to one type of tree or every outdoor allergen, allergic to only wheat or every starch. Some pets even inherit sensitivities to certain foods and environmental factors, and in these cases often demonstrate allergic symptoms early in life.
For other pets, allergies are acquired over several years of continual exposure to the allergen.
What may your pet be allergic to?
The truth is, animals can react to anything in their environment -- even water is a possibility if it’s contaminated with impurities. Collar and bedding materials (cotton, etc.), cleaning supplies, household chemicals and dust mites are all relatively common household allergens that could cause your pet to have an allergic reaction.
As you’re trying to figure out what allergen is causing your pet a problem, keep in mind that some pets have both food and environmental allergies. If your pet itches during the spring, summer or fall, they are most likely reacting to something they are exposed to at that time. But if your pet continues to have allergic reactions after outdoor allergens have been buried under snow, it points more toward a non-seasonal, or year-round source of allergy, such as food.
That said, if you live in an environment that does not have a hard freeze in the winter, environmental allergens can really build up and cause year-round issues for our companions. Allergy testing can be done to determine what substances your pet is reacting to at that point in time. Allergy panels can yield very different results when conducted over several months, demonstrating that the immune system can over-react to many different substances at varying times of the year.
Why Feeding Your Pet One Food for a Lifetime May be Problematic
I commonly hear people say, “My pet can’t be allergic to her food, she’s been eating it her whole life.”
This is the point, exactly! Food allergies have been shown to occur more in pets that are fed only one food source for a prolonged period of time. Your pet’s immune system can become bombarded with the same allergens for so long that it begins to react negatively to the food source.
The foods most commonly found to be allergenic to dogs and cats are:
Wheat
Corn
Chicken
Beef
Surprising?
Not really, as dogs and cats were never meant to ingest foods containing such high amounts of carbohydrates (the average commercial dog food contains over 50% grains), and were certainly designed to consume more than one protein source over a lifetime!
If you suspect that your pet has a food allergy, a food trial, or allergy elimination diet, can help you figure out which foods are the problem.
Conducting an Allergy Elimination Diet
Once your companion has developed an allergic reaction to a substance, those reactive antigens can circulate in his bloodstream for up to 6 weeks, causing inflammation and irritation.
This means that an allergy elimination diet should last at least six weeks, sometimes longer (I recommend a full 3 months).
During this period, pets must not eat any foods or treats suspected of causing a reaction. A single bite of a problematic food can cause a flare up that lasts several days, so complete elimination is essential for the process to be successful.
After your pet has been given adequate time to clear the allergic substances from his body, new foods can be added slowly back in, as you watch the animal’s response after each food is added. Interestingly, many of the foods that were previously considered allergenic can often be incorporated into the diet once your pet’s body has had ample time to detoxify and clean out cellular debris.
Many holistic vets theorize that it’s not the actual food protein that causes the immune system to react but the chemicals and preservatives included in the foods that cause the problem. Although we can’t say for sure, this would explain why, after making the correct dietary changes, many pets can then consume foods that they were previously allergic to.
Allergy Symptoms Can be Diverse
It’s critical for pet owners to recognize that allergy symptoms are very diverse, and expand beyond the typical itching or sneezing. They include:
Itchy body
Red eyes
Nasal discharge
Oozy skin
Asthm
Coughing and sneezing
Inflamed ears
Swollen paws
Gastrointestinal disease (vomiting, diarrhea, gas, chronic hairball issues, anal gland problems)
What is the Best Treatment?
Because the symptoms of inflammation are produced from the inside out, ointments, shampoos, sprays and dips can only provide temporary relief and although are beneficial to use for improving your pet’s quality of life during a flare up, long-term treatment must focus on balancing your pet’s immune system.
Steroids (also called prednisone, cortisone or the nondescript “allergy shot”) are the least optimal treatment choice, as they work by suppressing your pet’s immune system. Steroids actually turn the immune system off, which improves the symptoms remarkably fast but doesn’t address the root issue of why your pet’s immune system is over-reacting in the first place.
Not only can steroids have a negative effect on your pet’s liver, adrenal glands and kidneys, but suppressing your pet’s immune system with steroids also allows for opportunistic yeast and bacteria to grow on your pet’s skin, sometimes increasing the chances that antibiotics may be prescribed.
Antibiotics increase the likelihood of yeast overgrowth, which causes your pet to:
Smell like a corn chip
Become insanely itchy, which sends you back to the vet for more steroids
Do you see the crazy cycle? The image below does a great job of explaining it further.
As an aside, keep in mind that healthy pets do not smell bad. Yeast exudes a musty smell, and if your pet smells this way he may have a problem with yeast overgrowth. Many people assume their pets should smell this way, but in reality healthy pets should only be bathed with they’re dirty -- not because they’re smelly.
Bathing smelly pets in oatmeal (a grain) shampoo often adds fuel to the fire, requiring the pet to be re-bathed multiple times a week in order for the owners to tolerate the pet’s odor.
Nutrition is the Optimal Solution
The foods you feed your pet will eventually heal or harm. Feeding pets healing, non-allergenic foods allows their immune systems to rest. Rebalancing your pet’s immune system by offering natural, biologically appropriate wholesome foods is necessary to begin the road to recovery. Also remember that the more variety you include in your pet’s diet, the less likely your pet will be to react to the same monotonous foods. Nutritional variety is not only the spice of life, it’s critical for a balanced and healthy immune response -- and for keeping your pet allergy-free.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
The Dog Flu Virus: Are You or Your Pet at Risk?
In today’s Science Times, health reporter Donald McNeil writes about a new flu virus circulating in dogs. Mr. McNeil writes:
While fears of a flu pandemic among humans have shifted from the lethal H5N1 avian flu to the relatively mild H1N1 swine flu, the H3N8 canine flu has been a quiet undercurrent in the United States, rarely discussed except among veterinarians and dog owners in the few areas where it has struck hard: Florida, New York City’s northern suburbs, Philadelphia and Denver.
Dr. Cynda Crawford, co-discoverer of the dog flu virus.This week, Dr. Cynda Crawford, one of the discoverers of the virus and a veterinarian at the University of Florida veterinary school, joins the Consults blog to answers readers’ questions about the dog flu and the first vaccine approved for it.
Read Mr. McNeil’s full story, “New Flu Vaccine Approved — for Dogs.”
Do you have a question about canine flu? Post your questions for Dr. Crawford in the “Add your comments” box below. We will be posting Dr. Crawford’s responses in the coming week. Check back for regular updates.
While fears of a flu pandemic among humans have shifted from the lethal H5N1 avian flu to the relatively mild H1N1 swine flu, the H3N8 canine flu has been a quiet undercurrent in the United States, rarely discussed except among veterinarians and dog owners in the few areas where it has struck hard: Florida, New York City’s northern suburbs, Philadelphia and Denver.
Dr. Cynda Crawford, co-discoverer of the dog flu virus.This week, Dr. Cynda Crawford, one of the discoverers of the virus and a veterinarian at the University of Florida veterinary school, joins the Consults blog to answers readers’ questions about the dog flu and the first vaccine approved for it.
Read Mr. McNeil’s full story, “New Flu Vaccine Approved — for Dogs.”
Do you have a question about canine flu? Post your questions for Dr. Crawford in the “Add your comments” box below. We will be posting Dr. Crawford’s responses in the coming week. Check back for regular updates.
Weddings are going to the dogs!
Dogs are ring bearers, flower girls,
and more
Updated: Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT
By MIKE BRODY, Special Contributor
If you're going to a wedding this summer, don't be surprised to see a dog in the receiving line. The latest trend in weddings is including dogs (and other pets to a lesser extent) in the wedding party.
Pet-loving couples are increasingly including their dogs in all aspects of their weddings, including the ceremony, according to USA Today .
An American Kennel Club survey found that 18 percent of dog owners said they either have included (or would include) their dog in their wedding ceremony.
"Many people think of their pets as family members, and they wouldn't think of having a special day like this without that member," says Celina Bojorquez, co-owner of Beverly Hills Mutt Club, which sells upscale accessories like doggie tuxedos and couture dresses.
Dogs are being used as ring bearers, flower girls and to walk the bride down the aisle. They're also being seen in many wedding photos.
Celebrities are including their pets in their ceremonies as well. Tori Spelling had her pug serve as the ring bearer and flower girl at her wedding, and Adam Sandler had his dogs Matzoball (pulled down the aisle in a wagon) and Meatball at his Malibu wedding. Meatball was his "best dog" and was dressed in a tux with a yarmulke on his head.
The American Kennel Club offers many tips such as "designating a handler during the ceremony" and "keeping the dogs away from the food" for those who are considering including Fido in their wedding.
and more
Updated: Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT
By MIKE BRODY, Special Contributor
If you're going to a wedding this summer, don't be surprised to see a dog in the receiving line. The latest trend in weddings is including dogs (and other pets to a lesser extent) in the wedding party.
Pet-loving couples are increasingly including their dogs in all aspects of their weddings, including the ceremony, according to USA Today .
An American Kennel Club survey found that 18 percent of dog owners said they either have included (or would include) their dog in their wedding ceremony.
"Many people think of their pets as family members, and they wouldn't think of having a special day like this without that member," says Celina Bojorquez, co-owner of Beverly Hills Mutt Club, which sells upscale accessories like doggie tuxedos and couture dresses.
Dogs are being used as ring bearers, flower girls and to walk the bride down the aisle. They're also being seen in many wedding photos.
Celebrities are including their pets in their ceremonies as well. Tori Spelling had her pug serve as the ring bearer and flower girl at her wedding, and Adam Sandler had his dogs Matzoball (pulled down the aisle in a wagon) and Meatball at his Malibu wedding. Meatball was his "best dog" and was dressed in a tux with a yarmulke on his head.
The American Kennel Club offers many tips such as "designating a handler during the ceremony" and "keeping the dogs away from the food" for those who are considering including Fido in their wedding.
Do you consider pets family? You're far from alone!
Nearly one-third of owners let their pets share their human beds, like Snag L. Tooth (left) of Portland, Ore.
From The Associated Press:
Susan Jacobs and her companion Kingston both like chicken and collards, chilling on the couch and riding in her convertible with the breeze tussling his curly black hair.
Kingston, it should be said, is a black poodle. But for Jacobs, 45, of Long Beach, Calif., he is like a child.
"The next time I travel, I'll probably take him with me," said Jacobs, a Mary Kay consultant and freelance writer. "I'm just used to him being around."
An Associated Press-Petside.com poll released last week found that half of all American pet owners consider their pets as much a part of the family as any other person in the household; another 36 percent said their pet is part of the family but not a full member.
That means pets often get the human touch: Nearly half of all dog owners and 40 percent of cat owners admit giving their pets human food at least sometimes; nearly half give the animals human names; and nearly a third let them sleep in a human bed. While just 19 percent had bought an outfit for a pet, 43 percent felt their pet had its own "sense of style."
Singles were more likely to say a pet was a full member of the family than married people — 66 percent of single women versus 46 percent of married women, for example. And men were less likely to call their pet a full member of the household.
For some single women, pets become surrogate children, said Kristen Nelson, a veterinarian in Scottsdale, Ariz. She said men are also attached to pets but are less likely to admit it because it's not seen as masculine.
A little over a quarter of pet owners celebrate their pet's birthday or the day it came to live with them and a third have included a pet's photo or name in a holiday card.
Still, 42 percent of pet owners have taken a pet on vacation, with dogs more likely to accompany the family than cats. Dog owners were also more likely to take their pets to work (21 percent) or somewhere the animal wasn't allowed (18 percent).
From The Associated Press:
Susan Jacobs and her companion Kingston both like chicken and collards, chilling on the couch and riding in her convertible with the breeze tussling his curly black hair.
Kingston, it should be said, is a black poodle. But for Jacobs, 45, of Long Beach, Calif., he is like a child.
"The next time I travel, I'll probably take him with me," said Jacobs, a Mary Kay consultant and freelance writer. "I'm just used to him being around."
An Associated Press-Petside.com poll released last week found that half of all American pet owners consider their pets as much a part of the family as any other person in the household; another 36 percent said their pet is part of the family but not a full member.
That means pets often get the human touch: Nearly half of all dog owners and 40 percent of cat owners admit giving their pets human food at least sometimes; nearly half give the animals human names; and nearly a third let them sleep in a human bed. While just 19 percent had bought an outfit for a pet, 43 percent felt their pet had its own "sense of style."
Singles were more likely to say a pet was a full member of the family than married people — 66 percent of single women versus 46 percent of married women, for example. And men were less likely to call their pet a full member of the household.
For some single women, pets become surrogate children, said Kristen Nelson, a veterinarian in Scottsdale, Ariz. She said men are also attached to pets but are less likely to admit it because it's not seen as masculine.
A little over a quarter of pet owners celebrate their pet's birthday or the day it came to live with them and a third have included a pet's photo or name in a holiday card.
Still, 42 percent of pet owners have taken a pet on vacation, with dogs more likely to accompany the family than cats. Dog owners were also more likely to take their pets to work (21 percent) or somewhere the animal wasn't allowed (18 percent).
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Must-Know Tips to Keep Your Pet's Ears Healthy
Taking care of your pet’s ears is easier than you might think. A few simple steps will help you prevent otitis externa, which is simply the medical term for inflammation of the outer ear.
There are two reasons for your pet’s ear canal problems: chronic inflammation and infection. Inflammation, if left untreated, often leads to infection.
How can you tell if your dog or cat has ear inflammation or infection?
If your pet has hot, red, swollen or itchy ears without a lot of discharge, he most likely has inflammation, whereas if those symptoms are present with significant discharge, he probably has an infection.
Inflammation
There are three main reasons for ear inflammation:
Allergies
Moisture
WaxThe most common reason for inflammation is allergies. Allergic responses to foods or agents in the environment cause inflammation throughout your pet’s body—eye/nose/throat inflammation, skin inflammation, bowel inflammation--just about any body system can be affected, including ears.
Allergies are quite common in dogs and cats. If your pet has ear inflammation, it could be he’s allergic to something in his environment or his food. Dogs with this condition will sometimes run their heads along furniture trying to relieve these miserable symptoms, scratch their ears incessantly, or shake their heads more frequently If your pet is exhibiting any of these symptoms you should examine his ears for the telltale signs of redness and swelling.
The second reason for inflammation in your pet’s ear is moisture, also known as “swimmer’s ear.” This often occurs in the summer when dogs enjoy being outside, playing in lakes, ponds and pools where they get water in their ear canals. If your pet enjoys being in water, this additional source of moisture, in combination with his warm body temperature provides the perfect environment for inflammation and/or infection to develop, unless you take steps to dry out his ear canals.
Even dogs that don’t swim, but live in high humidity areas, are susceptible to these ear conditions, just from the ambient moisture in the air. Other less obvious sources of moisture in your dog’s ears are playing in the rain or snow.
Similarly, when dogs go to the groomer, they are susceptible to getting water in their ears at bath time. This is another common cause of ear inflammation.
The most important thing to remember in preventing ear moisture issues is to keep your pet’s ears dry, clean and free of debris. In fact, the third major reason for ear problems is the buildup of wax.
Wax is normal in mammalian ears, but dogs and cats have varying amounts of it, just as humans do. Some dogs need their ears cleaned of wax daily. Others never have a buildup. Certain breeds produce more wax than others, such as Labradors and retrievers who are, by nature, swimmers.
If you have one of these breeds, you should get your pet accustomed to having his ears cleaned early on--from the time he is a puppy. Some breeds, such as bulldogs, cocker spaniels and poodles, can also produce an abundance of wax that needs attention daily.
It is important to determine how often your pet needs his ears cleaned so you can prevent this waxy buildup, which could lead to inflammation or infection. The only way to know is through observation.
Kitties are not immune from wax buildup. You should regularly check your cat’s ears for inflammation, as well as wax buildup. Some cats have dry ear canals that never need cleaning, and others should be cleaned regularly.
Outer Ear Infection
There are two types of organisms that infect the outer, or external ear: bacteria and fungi.
The primary fungal culprit is yeast. Yeast are opportunistic pathogens, meaning they are present on the bodies of humans, dogs and cats all the time. It is only when the animal’s health is out of check that the yeast overgrows, causing an infection. So, if the immune system is functioning properly, yeast is not ordinarily a problem.
If your dog is having chronic yeast infections, he probably has an overly warm, moist ear environment that you need to remedy. If you have been keeping your dog’s ears clean and dry and he still has chronic yeast infections, or an infection that just won’t go away, you need to look for an underlying immunological reason this is happening.
He could have an endocrine (glandular) problem, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease, or even some sort of immunosuppressive problem.
The most common cause of ear problems in dogs is bacterial infections. Veterinarians classify bacteria into 2 groups: pathogenic and nonpathogenic.
Pathogenic bacteria are not normal inhabitants of your pet’s body. They are bacteria your dog could catch from, say, contaminated pond water. That is, they are not normally present on the animal. The dog goes splashing through a pond, water splashes into his ear, and then an infection results.
Nonpathogenic bacteria are the dog’s normal bacteria (typically staph species) that start to take over the ear canal, growing out of control. Dogs have a normal, healthy layer of good bacteria all over their bodies, which prevent pathogenic bacteria from taking hold, just as you and I are covered with normally helpful bacteria that can cause an infection if our immune system becomes compromised.
How do you know which type of bacterial infection your pet has?
You don’t. The only way to find out is with an ear culture.
An ear culture is a lab test where your veterinarian swabs your pet’s ear and sends the sample in to a lab, which actually determines what organism is growing in there and what medication will treat it.
If your pet has a one-time ear infection and your vet treats it with a medication without culturing, and it gets better, that is fine. But if it comes back, or if the infection becomes chronic, then you really need to insist on an ear culture.
It is very important to finish the medication, even if your pet seems better. Failing to finish the full medication regimen can lead to regrowth of resistant organisms, a much more serious problem.
Any time your pet is being treated for an infection, it is important to properly clean the ears and remove all sticky debris so the medication can reach the infected tissue. Ointment that builds up in the ear canal is nothing more than warm, sticky “goo” for the infection to grow in.
Ear Cleaning 101
I am not a big fan of using alcohol to clean the ears because it can cause burning and irritation to already inflamed tissues. However, there are many easy to obtain preparations that are appropriate.
My favorite cleaning agents are:
Witch hazel
Organic apple cider vinegar and purified water, mixed equal parts
Hydrogen peroxide
Green tea infusion (using tea that has been cooled, of course)
Tea tree oil greatly diluted in purified water (but NOT for kitties)
You can use a cotton swab to clean the outside ear area, but never use them inside the ear canal. Use cotton balls instead, since they cannot be inserted too far into the ear. Cotton swabs can damage to your pets eardrums, whereas cotton balls don’t.
If you’ve never cleaned your pets ears before, ask your vet for a quick “how to” lesson next time you’re in for a visit. If your pet has recurrent infections or significant inflammation (if the ears are very painful when touched) it’s important your vet examines the canal before you begin a cleaning regimen. Some dogs may have ruptured ear drums, and special cleaners and medications are required for these pets.
The best way to clean the ear canal is to saturate the cotton ball with your cleaning solution and repeatedly swab out the inside of the ear, until you see no residue on the cotton ball. This may take one swipe or dozens—it completely depends on how much buildup is present in your pet’s ears. You might need to do this daily, weekly, monthly, or maybe even never, if you’re lucky.
Alternately, you can use a small squirt bottle to flush the animal’s ear, then use a cotton ball to wick out the solution. The problem with this method is, usually it causes the animal to shake his head, flinging the solution all over you, your clothing and your bathroom wall. So make sure you are not attempting this while dressed in your favorite duds.
As you can see, taking care of your pet’s years isn’t as difficult as you might have thought! Just a few simple steps to keep his ears clean and dry will go far in preventing many of the outer ear conditions that most commonly afflict our precious companions.
There are two reasons for your pet’s ear canal problems: chronic inflammation and infection. Inflammation, if left untreated, often leads to infection.
How can you tell if your dog or cat has ear inflammation or infection?
If your pet has hot, red, swollen or itchy ears without a lot of discharge, he most likely has inflammation, whereas if those symptoms are present with significant discharge, he probably has an infection.
Inflammation
There are three main reasons for ear inflammation:
Allergies
Moisture
WaxThe most common reason for inflammation is allergies. Allergic responses to foods or agents in the environment cause inflammation throughout your pet’s body—eye/nose/throat inflammation, skin inflammation, bowel inflammation--just about any body system can be affected, including ears.
Allergies are quite common in dogs and cats. If your pet has ear inflammation, it could be he’s allergic to something in his environment or his food. Dogs with this condition will sometimes run their heads along furniture trying to relieve these miserable symptoms, scratch their ears incessantly, or shake their heads more frequently If your pet is exhibiting any of these symptoms you should examine his ears for the telltale signs of redness and swelling.
The second reason for inflammation in your pet’s ear is moisture, also known as “swimmer’s ear.” This often occurs in the summer when dogs enjoy being outside, playing in lakes, ponds and pools where they get water in their ear canals. If your pet enjoys being in water, this additional source of moisture, in combination with his warm body temperature provides the perfect environment for inflammation and/or infection to develop, unless you take steps to dry out his ear canals.
Even dogs that don’t swim, but live in high humidity areas, are susceptible to these ear conditions, just from the ambient moisture in the air. Other less obvious sources of moisture in your dog’s ears are playing in the rain or snow.
Similarly, when dogs go to the groomer, they are susceptible to getting water in their ears at bath time. This is another common cause of ear inflammation.
The most important thing to remember in preventing ear moisture issues is to keep your pet’s ears dry, clean and free of debris. In fact, the third major reason for ear problems is the buildup of wax.
Wax is normal in mammalian ears, but dogs and cats have varying amounts of it, just as humans do. Some dogs need their ears cleaned of wax daily. Others never have a buildup. Certain breeds produce more wax than others, such as Labradors and retrievers who are, by nature, swimmers.
If you have one of these breeds, you should get your pet accustomed to having his ears cleaned early on--from the time he is a puppy. Some breeds, such as bulldogs, cocker spaniels and poodles, can also produce an abundance of wax that needs attention daily.
It is important to determine how often your pet needs his ears cleaned so you can prevent this waxy buildup, which could lead to inflammation or infection. The only way to know is through observation.
Kitties are not immune from wax buildup. You should regularly check your cat’s ears for inflammation, as well as wax buildup. Some cats have dry ear canals that never need cleaning, and others should be cleaned regularly.
Outer Ear Infection
There are two types of organisms that infect the outer, or external ear: bacteria and fungi.
The primary fungal culprit is yeast. Yeast are opportunistic pathogens, meaning they are present on the bodies of humans, dogs and cats all the time. It is only when the animal’s health is out of check that the yeast overgrows, causing an infection. So, if the immune system is functioning properly, yeast is not ordinarily a problem.
If your dog is having chronic yeast infections, he probably has an overly warm, moist ear environment that you need to remedy. If you have been keeping your dog’s ears clean and dry and he still has chronic yeast infections, or an infection that just won’t go away, you need to look for an underlying immunological reason this is happening.
He could have an endocrine (glandular) problem, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease, or even some sort of immunosuppressive problem.
The most common cause of ear problems in dogs is bacterial infections. Veterinarians classify bacteria into 2 groups: pathogenic and nonpathogenic.
Pathogenic bacteria are not normal inhabitants of your pet’s body. They are bacteria your dog could catch from, say, contaminated pond water. That is, they are not normally present on the animal. The dog goes splashing through a pond, water splashes into his ear, and then an infection results.
Nonpathogenic bacteria are the dog’s normal bacteria (typically staph species) that start to take over the ear canal, growing out of control. Dogs have a normal, healthy layer of good bacteria all over their bodies, which prevent pathogenic bacteria from taking hold, just as you and I are covered with normally helpful bacteria that can cause an infection if our immune system becomes compromised.
How do you know which type of bacterial infection your pet has?
You don’t. The only way to find out is with an ear culture.
An ear culture is a lab test where your veterinarian swabs your pet’s ear and sends the sample in to a lab, which actually determines what organism is growing in there and what medication will treat it.
If your pet has a one-time ear infection and your vet treats it with a medication without culturing, and it gets better, that is fine. But if it comes back, or if the infection becomes chronic, then you really need to insist on an ear culture.
It is very important to finish the medication, even if your pet seems better. Failing to finish the full medication regimen can lead to regrowth of resistant organisms, a much more serious problem.
Any time your pet is being treated for an infection, it is important to properly clean the ears and remove all sticky debris so the medication can reach the infected tissue. Ointment that builds up in the ear canal is nothing more than warm, sticky “goo” for the infection to grow in.
Ear Cleaning 101
I am not a big fan of using alcohol to clean the ears because it can cause burning and irritation to already inflamed tissues. However, there are many easy to obtain preparations that are appropriate.
My favorite cleaning agents are:
Witch hazel
Organic apple cider vinegar and purified water, mixed equal parts
Hydrogen peroxide
Green tea infusion (using tea that has been cooled, of course)
Tea tree oil greatly diluted in purified water (but NOT for kitties)
You can use a cotton swab to clean the outside ear area, but never use them inside the ear canal. Use cotton balls instead, since they cannot be inserted too far into the ear. Cotton swabs can damage to your pets eardrums, whereas cotton balls don’t.
If you’ve never cleaned your pets ears before, ask your vet for a quick “how to” lesson next time you’re in for a visit. If your pet has recurrent infections or significant inflammation (if the ears are very painful when touched) it’s important your vet examines the canal before you begin a cleaning regimen. Some dogs may have ruptured ear drums, and special cleaners and medications are required for these pets.
The best way to clean the ear canal is to saturate the cotton ball with your cleaning solution and repeatedly swab out the inside of the ear, until you see no residue on the cotton ball. This may take one swipe or dozens—it completely depends on how much buildup is present in your pet’s ears. You might need to do this daily, weekly, monthly, or maybe even never, if you’re lucky.
Alternately, you can use a small squirt bottle to flush the animal’s ear, then use a cotton ball to wick out the solution. The problem with this method is, usually it causes the animal to shake his head, flinging the solution all over you, your clothing and your bathroom wall. So make sure you are not attempting this while dressed in your favorite duds.
As you can see, taking care of your pet’s years isn’t as difficult as you might have thought! Just a few simple steps to keep his ears clean and dry will go far in preventing many of the outer ear conditions that most commonly afflict our precious companions.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Hot-weather alert: How to protect your pet
We're all talking about the blistering heat and how miserable it is. Our animal friends feel it, too. Here's some advice on protecting your pets in this weather, from Dr. Juan Patino, owner of Kirkpatrick Veterinary Hospital in Orlando.
Provide shelter and plenty of water. Pets should have easy access to an area where shade, water and coolness are available all the time. Pets do not perspire, and it's difficult for their bodies to dissipate the heat. Pay special attention to puppies, kittens, senior pets, working pets and small breeds -- they have an increased risk of overheating.
Never leave your pet in the car. The inside of a car can reach temperatures up to 120 degrees in a matter of minutes, even if parked in the shade. This can cause brain damage, heat exhaustion, heatstroke and even death.
Limit exercise. Exercise is important, but in the heat, walk your pet early in the morning or late at night and maintain a gentle pace. If the pet is panting a lot or shows signs of exhaustion, it's time to stop.
Provide shelter and plenty of water. Pets should have easy access to an area where shade, water and coolness are available all the time. Pets do not perspire, and it's difficult for their bodies to dissipate the heat. Pay special attention to puppies, kittens, senior pets, working pets and small breeds -- they have an increased risk of overheating.
Never leave your pet in the car. The inside of a car can reach temperatures up to 120 degrees in a matter of minutes, even if parked in the shade. This can cause brain damage, heat exhaustion, heatstroke and even death.
Limit exercise. Exercise is important, but in the heat, walk your pet early in the morning or late at night and maintain a gentle pace. If the pet is panting a lot or shows signs of exhaustion, it's time to stop.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Take Your Dog To Work Day is Friday, June 26!
King, NC (PSI)—Pet Sitters International, creator of Take Your Dog To Work Day®, today announced Petfinder.com and Dog Fancy magazine as the official adoption partner and official publication partner, respectively, for the tenth anniversary of its annual Take Your Dog To Work Day (TYDTWDay®) campaign.
Offering a fun and unique way to promote dog adoptions, the TYDTWDay campaign encourages employers to open their doors to their employees’ canines for one fun summer Friday.
Co-workers without pets are able to witness the human-animal bond when dogs visit their offices on Friday, June 26, and may be encouraged to experience this joy firsthand by adopting a dog of their own
According to PSI president, Patti Moran, the campaign is carried out every year so that the association’s 8,000 members can give back to the communities they serve. This year, the need for dog adoptions is hugely compounded by economic factors.
“Shelter’s everywhere are reporting increases in dogs populations and our goal is to create as many new homes as possible,” Moran said. We are excited that Petfinder.com and Dog Fancy magazine are joining our efforts to spread the word that ‘secondhand dogs’ can offer the first-rate love ..
Last year’s campaign made great strides in promoting the plight of “foreclosure dogs” and encouraging adoptions, garnering extensive media and a surge in traffic at www.takeyourdog.com. Mentions in high-profile publications, such as USA Today and the Wall Street Journal blog, as well as on popular shows such as “Live with Regis and Kelly” bolstered recognition of the campaign.
For the 2009 campaign, Petfinder.com, Dog Fancy magazine and PSI will work together to provide a unique, multimedia experience for businesses, shelters and dog lovers interested in promoting local pet adoption through participation in Take Your Dog To Work Day.
The TYDTWDay web site allows visitors to register participation and access downloadable TYDTWDay resource guides for businesses and shelters, as well as tips for participating and celebrating. This year the site offers an expanded registration feature, allowing international participants to register. Participants can enter their professional pooches in the official TYDTWDay photo and video contests.
This year’s campaign stresses that as people look for ways to do more with less, adopting a dog is one of the basic, most affordable ways to bring joy to a family. Using the site’s Petfinder.com search tool, individuals can locate adoptable pets in their area.
Since 1999, Pet Sitters International has encouraged suitable businesses of all sizes to allow dogs in the workplace on Take Your Dog To Work Day. During a time when many businesses have been forced to cut jobs and decrease benefits, the event is a fun, low-cost “pet perk” companies can offer to boost employee moral and align themselves with a great cause—promoting local pet adoptions.
PSI encourages businesses, shelters and pet lovers interested in learning more about TYDTWDay to visit www.takeyourdog.com for more information.
Offering a fun and unique way to promote dog adoptions, the TYDTWDay campaign encourages employers to open their doors to their employees’ canines for one fun summer Friday.
Co-workers without pets are able to witness the human-animal bond when dogs visit their offices on Friday, June 26, and may be encouraged to experience this joy firsthand by adopting a dog of their own
According to PSI president, Patti Moran, the campaign is carried out every year so that the association’s 8,000 members can give back to the communities they serve. This year, the need for dog adoptions is hugely compounded by economic factors.
“Shelter’s everywhere are reporting increases in dogs populations and our goal is to create as many new homes as possible,” Moran said. We are excited that Petfinder.com and Dog Fancy magazine are joining our efforts to spread the word that ‘secondhand dogs’ can offer the first-rate love ..
Last year’s campaign made great strides in promoting the plight of “foreclosure dogs” and encouraging adoptions, garnering extensive media and a surge in traffic at www.takeyourdog.com. Mentions in high-profile publications, such as USA Today and the Wall Street Journal blog, as well as on popular shows such as “Live with Regis and Kelly” bolstered recognition of the campaign.
For the 2009 campaign, Petfinder.com, Dog Fancy magazine and PSI will work together to provide a unique, multimedia experience for businesses, shelters and dog lovers interested in promoting local pet adoption through participation in Take Your Dog To Work Day.
The TYDTWDay web site allows visitors to register participation and access downloadable TYDTWDay resource guides for businesses and shelters, as well as tips for participating and celebrating. This year the site offers an expanded registration feature, allowing international participants to register. Participants can enter their professional pooches in the official TYDTWDay photo and video contests.
This year’s campaign stresses that as people look for ways to do more with less, adopting a dog is one of the basic, most affordable ways to bring joy to a family. Using the site’s Petfinder.com search tool, individuals can locate adoptable pets in their area.
Since 1999, Pet Sitters International has encouraged suitable businesses of all sizes to allow dogs in the workplace on Take Your Dog To Work Day. During a time when many businesses have been forced to cut jobs and decrease benefits, the event is a fun, low-cost “pet perk” companies can offer to boost employee moral and align themselves with a great cause—promoting local pet adoptions.
PSI encourages businesses, shelters and pet lovers interested in learning more about TYDTWDay to visit www.takeyourdog.com for more information.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Man's best friend fights disease, too!
Dogs help people in countless ways -- from teaming with the visually impaired to sniffing out explosives. Dogs also are serving as models for medical research (much like lab rats), which is good news for people and even better news for dogs. That's because research dollars to study diseases in animals are more available if the research also benefits people.
Dogs are far better subjects to understand human disease because dogs naturally get many of the same diseases people do, according to veterinary oncologist Stephen Withrow, a specialist within the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine. They also make good research subjects because they are more genetically diverse than most lab animals.
And dog research can be quickly translated into human disease treatment. Cancer is a great example: It's naturally occurring at nearly the same rate in pets as it is in people. The non-profit Morris Animal Foundation, for which I volunteer, is working with the National Cancer Institute's Comparative Oncology Trials Consortium to come up with cures.
"Working on both the canine and the human side speeds research to learn more about devastating diseases," says Joan Coates, associate professor at the University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine. Coates is studying a possible connection between degenerative myelopathy in dogs and amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, or Lou Gehrig's disease.
 Medical research on dogs has yielded possible treatments for people with diseases. |
Researchers have long suspected that bacteria play a role in Crohn's disease, but the specific types of bacteria that drive chronic intestinal inflammation have remained elusive. In 2007, an invasive E. coli bacterium was found in the intestinal linings of boxers with a specific type of colitis, and, as a result, long-term remission in the dogs is now achieved using antibiotics rather than immunosuppressive drugs. Further scientific investigation led to this breakthrough: A similar type of E. coli was found in the intestinal linings of some people with Crohn's. Kenneth Simpson, an internal medicine specialist at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, says this finding improves the chances that antibiotics may be developed to help Crohn's sufferers with this type of E. coli.
People, of course, are prone to type 2 diabetes, and so are cats and dogs -- except sled dogs. "No one knows why sled dogs aren't affected," says internal medicine specialist Michael Davis of the Oklahoma State University Center for Veterinary Health Sciences. "If we can learn why -- by reverse engineering of sled dog muscle cells -- the hope is to learn how to prevent type 2 diabetes in people, cats and dogs."
Here is more information about the cutting-edge medicine veterinarians use today that may ultimately help both dogs and people:
Sometimes, in both humans and dogs, diseases that don't seem to be associated may be. First discovered in 1973, degenerative myelopathy is a spontaneously occurring disease in dogs affecting the spinal cord, and later the nerves and muscles, ultimately leading to paralysis. For years, the cause of this disease has been a mystery.
Veterinary neurologist Joan Coates, associate professor at the University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine, studied the disease, particularly in Pembroke Welsh corgis. A breakthrough arrived when she and colleagues, including Kerstin Linblad-Toh and Claire Wade, molecular genetic researchers at the Broad Institute at MIT and Harvard, discovered a gene called SOD1 in dogs with degenerative myelopathy. It turns out that same mutated gene is similar to the underlying cause of some forms of amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS) or Lou Gehrig's disease. In dogs, genetic risk factors now can be tested, which will help breeders decrease the presence of the genetic mutation within the breed.
Now that the gene mutation is identified," Coates says, "our long-term goal is to work with human ALS researchers and their molecular therapeutic approaches, which, if safe and work for dogs, may also help people with ALS. All in all, working on both the canine and the human sides simultaneously speeds research to learn more about both of these devastating diseases."
Researchers have long suspected that bacteria play a role in Crohn's disease, but the specific types of bacteria that drive chronic intestinal inflammation have remained elusive. In 2007, an invasive E. coli bacterium was found in the intestinal linings of boxers with a specific type of colitis, and, as a result, long-term remission is now achieved through use of antibiotics rather than side-effect-laden immunosuppressive drugs. Further scientific investigation followed, leading to this breakthrough: A similar type of E. coli was found in the intestinal linings of some people with Crohn's disease. Kenneth Simpson, an internal medicine specialist at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, explains that this finding raises the real possibility that treating that subset (of about 30%) of people with Crohn's with this type of E.coli by using antibiotics might work to combat the disease.
People, of course, are prone to type 2 diabetes, and so are cats and all dogs - except sled dogs. "No one know why sled dogs aren't affected," says internal medicine specialist Michael Davis, Oklahoma State University Center for Veterinary Health Sciences. "If we can learn why by reverse engineering of sled dog muscle cells, the hope is ultimately to learn how to prevent type 2 diabetes in people, cats and dogs."
Orange County shelter issues plea for cat adoptions
The shelter is over capacity, with nearly 400 cats and kittens. As part of national Adopt-a-Shelter Cat Month, the county is offering some special incentives for new cat owners.
Animal Services is sending each newly adopted cat and kitten home with a free toy, and adopters will be entered into a weekly drawing for other prizes like pet first aid kits and goody bags. In addition, the agency’s adoption welcome kits include a video created by Animal Planet Pet Video about caring for new feline family members and coupons for free flea, tick and parasite control products.
“We want to give new adopters as much support as we can in these tough times to keep their pets healthy and happy,” said Katherine Lockett, Manager of Animal Services.
Cat and kitten adoption fees at Orange County are $40 and include:
• Spaying or neutering
• FVRCP and rabies vaccinations
• FLV/FIV testing
• Microchip identification
• Deworming
• 5 lb. Bag of Science Diet Dry Food
• “Your Adopted Cat” Care and Training Video
• Adoption Welcome Kit with coupons for Advantage products
Orange County Animal Services is located at 2769 Conroy Road, Orlando, FL 32839 near the Mall at Millenia and IKEA. The facility is open for adoptions Monday–Friday from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, please call (407) 254-9140 or visit http://www.ocnetpets.com/.
Animal Services is sending each newly adopted cat and kitten home with a free toy, and adopters will be entered into a weekly drawing for other prizes like pet first aid kits and goody bags. In addition, the agency’s adoption welcome kits include a video created by Animal Planet Pet Video about caring for new feline family members and coupons for free flea, tick and parasite control products.
“We want to give new adopters as much support as we can in these tough times to keep their pets healthy and happy,” said Katherine Lockett, Manager of Animal Services.
Cat and kitten adoption fees at Orange County are $40 and include:
• Spaying or neutering
• FVRCP and rabies vaccinations
• FLV/FIV testing
• Microchip identification
• Deworming
• 5 lb. Bag of Science Diet Dry Food
• “Your Adopted Cat” Care and Training Video
• Adoption Welcome Kit with coupons for Advantage products
Orange County Animal Services is located at 2769 Conroy Road, Orlando, FL 32839 near the Mall at Millenia and IKEA. The facility is open for adoptions Monday–Friday from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, please call (407) 254-9140 or visit http://www.ocnetpets.com/.
Monday, June 1, 2009
How to Eliminate Annoying Litter Box Problems
The most common behavioral problem for which cat owners seek assistance is housesoiling. In fact, housesoiling is a leading cause of cats’ relinquishment to shelters.
There are three main causes of housesoiling in cats: underlying medical problems [e.g. feline lower urinary tract disease, or feline urologic syndrome (FLUTD/FUS)], urine marking, and toileting issues. Toileting problems can stem from a variety of causes, including factors unrelated to the litter box. So, it is always critical to get a comprehensive history to correctly identify the motivation for the problematic behavior.
By getting the latest scoop on litter, you will be better prepared to prevent and resolve litter- and litter-box-related toileting problems in your feline patients. Factors to consider include:
Litter fragrance
Odor control
Litter box size
Texture of the substrate material (such as clay, recycled newspaper, corn cob, wheat or other organic pellet material)
Location
Every cat has unique preferences, and the best way to identify an individual cat’s set of toileting preferences is to experiment with a variety of litter choices and box styles. This article focuses on new research related to litter and litter boxes that may be helpful in preventing and treating toileting problems.
There are three main causes of housesoiling in cats: underlying medical problems [e.g. feline lower urinary tract disease, or feline urologic syndrome (FLUTD/FUS)], urine marking, and toileting issues. Toileting problems can stem from a variety of causes, including factors unrelated to the litter box. So, it is always critical to get a comprehensive history to correctly identify the motivation for the problematic behavior.
By getting the latest scoop on litter, you will be better prepared to prevent and resolve litter- and litter-box-related toileting problems in your feline patients. Factors to consider include:
Litter fragrance
Odor control
Litter box size
Texture of the substrate material (such as clay, recycled newspaper, corn cob, wheat or other organic pellet material)
Location
Every cat has unique preferences, and the best way to identify an individual cat’s set of toileting preferences is to experiment with a variety of litter choices and box styles. This article focuses on new research related to litter and litter boxes that may be helpful in preventing and treating toileting problems.
ASPCA® Offers Tips to Help Pets Stay Cool During Hot Summer Months
NEW YORK—As the summer sun begins to heat things up, the ASPCA® (The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals®) reminds pet parents how to keep their furry friends cool, safe and happy.
“Summertime is a wonderful time for family and friends to get together and enjoy themselves, often with a beloved pet by their side,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President of Animal Health Services for the ASPCA. “However, it’s important to consider the hidden, and sometimes, not-so-hidden dangers, that can harm our furry companions.”
Here are just a few ways animal lovers can keep their pets safe this summer:
Make Sure the Food is Friendly. Summertime is the perfect time for a backyard barbeque or party, but remember that the food and drink you serve your guests may be poisonous to pets. “Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas,,” says Dr. Hansen. “Similarly, remember that the snacks you serve your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with xylitol as a sweetner”
Pets Have it Made in the Shade. Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give your pets plenty of water when it’s hot outdoors. Also, make sure your pet has a shady place to get out of the sun, and keep them indoors when it’s extremely hot. “Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine at the ASPCA’s Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. “On a hot day, even with the windows open, a parked automobile can become a furnace in no time, and heat stroke can develop, which is often fatal.”
A Pest-Free Pet is a Happy Pet. Commonly-used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. While there are flea products that can be used safely on dogs and cats, products labeled as “dog only” containing permethrin can be deadly to cats.. Be sure to read directions on these products carefully.
Water safety is Pet-Friendly. Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure pets wear flotation devices while on boats. Try not to let your dog drink pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Look Out for “High Rise Syndrome.” “During warmer months, The ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of ‘High-Rise Syndrome,’ which occurs when pets fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured,” says Dr. Murray. “Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions.” Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.
Be Aware of Heated Situations. When taking your dog outdoors or in the company of other animals, always keep a watchful eye on those around you. Summer is a wonderful time to engage in outdoor activities with your pet, but with more people and their dogs enjoying the warmer weather, tempers may flare over territory, so it’s equally important to make sure your dog is safe and secure around strangers and other animals.
Fireworks Aren’t Very Petriotic. Never use fireworks around pets. Says Dr. Hansen, “While exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns or trauma to curious pets, even unused fireworks can be hazardous. Many types of fireworks contain potentially toxic substances such as potassium nitrate, copper, chlorates, arsenic and other heavy metals.”
Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of the reach of pets as well. Ingestions can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression, and if inhaled, the oils could potentially cause aspiration pneumonia.
If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 (a fee applies) or www.aspca.org/apcc, or take your pet to a veterinarian immediately. For more information on having a fun, safe summer with your pet, please visit www.aspca.org.
“Summertime is a wonderful time for family and friends to get together and enjoy themselves, often with a beloved pet by their side,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President of Animal Health Services for the ASPCA. “However, it’s important to consider the hidden, and sometimes, not-so-hidden dangers, that can harm our furry companions.”
Here are just a few ways animal lovers can keep their pets safe this summer:
Make Sure the Food is Friendly. Summertime is the perfect time for a backyard barbeque or party, but remember that the food and drink you serve your guests may be poisonous to pets. “Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas,,” says Dr. Hansen. “Similarly, remember that the snacks you serve your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with xylitol as a sweetner”
Pets Have it Made in the Shade. Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give your pets plenty of water when it’s hot outdoors. Also, make sure your pet has a shady place to get out of the sun, and keep them indoors when it’s extremely hot. “Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine at the ASPCA’s Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. “On a hot day, even with the windows open, a parked automobile can become a furnace in no time, and heat stroke can develop, which is often fatal.”
A Pest-Free Pet is a Happy Pet. Commonly-used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. While there are flea products that can be used safely on dogs and cats, products labeled as “dog only” containing permethrin can be deadly to cats.. Be sure to read directions on these products carefully.
Water safety is Pet-Friendly. Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure pets wear flotation devices while on boats. Try not to let your dog drink pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Look Out for “High Rise Syndrome.” “During warmer months, The ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of ‘High-Rise Syndrome,’ which occurs when pets fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured,” says Dr. Murray. “Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions.” Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.
Be Aware of Heated Situations. When taking your dog outdoors or in the company of other animals, always keep a watchful eye on those around you. Summer is a wonderful time to engage in outdoor activities with your pet, but with more people and their dogs enjoying the warmer weather, tempers may flare over territory, so it’s equally important to make sure your dog is safe and secure around strangers and other animals.
Fireworks Aren’t Very Petriotic. Never use fireworks around pets. Says Dr. Hansen, “While exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns or trauma to curious pets, even unused fireworks can be hazardous. Many types of fireworks contain potentially toxic substances such as potassium nitrate, copper, chlorates, arsenic and other heavy metals.”
Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of the reach of pets as well. Ingestions can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression, and if inhaled, the oils could potentially cause aspiration pneumonia.
If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 (a fee applies) or www.aspca.org/apcc, or take your pet to a veterinarian immediately. For more information on having a fun, safe summer with your pet, please visit www.aspca.org.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Dog Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is an emergency that requires immediate recognition and prompt treatment. Dogs do not tolerate high temperatures as well as humans. They depend upon rapid breathing to exchange warm air for cool air. Accordingly when air temperature is close to body temperature, cooling by rapid breathing is not and efficient process. Dogs with airway disease also have difficulty with excess heat.
Common situations that predispose to overheating or heat stroke in dogs are:
1. Being left in a car in hot weather.
2. Being confined on concrete runs; chained without shade in hot weather.
3. Being of a short-nosed breed, especially a Bulldog or Pug.
4. Being muzzled while put under a dryer (this can happen in a grooming parlor).
5. Suffering from airway disease or any condition that impairs breathing.
Heat stroke begins with rapid, frantic, noisy breathing. The tongue and mucus membranes are bright red, the saliva is thick and tenacious and the dog frequently vomits. Its rectal temperature is high, sometimes over 106 degrees F. The cause of the problem usually is evident by the typical appearance of the dog; it can be confirmed by taking its temperature.
If the condition is allowed to go unchecked, the dog becomes unsteady and staggers, has diarrhea that often is bloody and becomes progressively weaker. Coma and death ensue.
Treatment: Emergency measures must begin at once. Mild cases respond to moving the dog to a cooler surrounding, such as an air-conditioned building or car. If the dog's temperature is over 104 degrees F, or if unsteady on its feet, the dog should be cooled by immersion in a tub of cold water. If this is impossible, hose your dog down with a garden hose. For a temperature over 106 degrees F, or if the dog is near collapse, give a cold water enema. A more rapid temperature drop is imperative. Cool to a rectal temperature of 103 degrees F.
Heat stroke can be associated with swelling of the throat. This aggravates the problem. A cortisone injection by your veterinarian may be required to treat this.
Prevention:
1. Do not expose dogs with airway disease or impaired breathing to prolonged heat.
2. Restrict exercise during the heat of the day in summer.
3. Breed dogs in air-conditioned quarters.
4. Crate a dog only in an open wire cage.
5. Provide shade and cool water to dogs living in outdoor runs.
Common situations that predispose to overheating or heat stroke in dogs are:
1. Being left in a car in hot weather.
2. Being confined on concrete runs; chained without shade in hot weather.
3. Being of a short-nosed breed, especially a Bulldog or Pug.
4. Being muzzled while put under a dryer (this can happen in a grooming parlor).
5. Suffering from airway disease or any condition that impairs breathing.
Heat stroke begins with rapid, frantic, noisy breathing. The tongue and mucus membranes are bright red, the saliva is thick and tenacious and the dog frequently vomits. Its rectal temperature is high, sometimes over 106 degrees F. The cause of the problem usually is evident by the typical appearance of the dog; it can be confirmed by taking its temperature.
If the condition is allowed to go unchecked, the dog becomes unsteady and staggers, has diarrhea that often is bloody and becomes progressively weaker. Coma and death ensue.
Treatment: Emergency measures must begin at once. Mild cases respond to moving the dog to a cooler surrounding, such as an air-conditioned building or car. If the dog's temperature is over 104 degrees F, or if unsteady on its feet, the dog should be cooled by immersion in a tub of cold water. If this is impossible, hose your dog down with a garden hose. For a temperature over 106 degrees F, or if the dog is near collapse, give a cold water enema. A more rapid temperature drop is imperative. Cool to a rectal temperature of 103 degrees F.
Heat stroke can be associated with swelling of the throat. This aggravates the problem. A cortisone injection by your veterinarian may be required to treat this.
Prevention:
1. Do not expose dogs with airway disease or impaired breathing to prolonged heat.
2. Restrict exercise during the heat of the day in summer.
3. Breed dogs in air-conditioned quarters.
4. Crate a dog only in an open wire cage.
5. Provide shade and cool water to dogs living in outdoor runs.
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