Halloween Safety Tips

Halloween can be the spookiest night of the year, but keeping your pets safe doesn’t have to be tricky. The ASPCA recommends taking these simple, common sense precautions to keep your pet happy and healthy all the way to November 1.

Stash the Treats
The candy bowl is for trick-or-treaters, not Scruffy or Fluffy. Several popular Halloween treats are toxic to pets. Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for cats and dogs, and sugar-free candies containing the sugar substitute xylitol can cause serious problems in pets. If you suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately.

Watch the Decorations and Keep Wires Out of Reach
While a carved jack-o-lantern certainly is festive, pets can easily knock over a lit pumpkin and start a fire. Curious kittens are especially at risk of getting burned or singed by candle flame. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered relatively nontoxic, but can produce stomach discomfort in pets who nibble on them.

Be Careful with Costumes
For some pets, wearing a costume may cause undue stress. The ASPCA recommends that you don’t put your dog or cat in a costume unless you know he or she loves it. If you do dress up your pet for Halloween, make sure the costume does not limit his or her movement, sight or ability to breathe, bark or meow. Check the costume carefully for small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that could present a choking hazard. Ill-fitting outfits can get twisted on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.
Be sure to have your pet try on the costume before the big night. If he or she seems distressed or shows abnormal behavior, consider letting your pet wear his or her “birthday suit” or don a festive bandana instead.

Keep Pets Calm and Easily Identifiable
Halloween brings a flurry of activity with visitors arriving at the door, and too many strangers can often be scary and stressful for pets. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room away from the front door during peak trick-or-treating hours. While opening the door for guests, be sure that your dog or cat doesn’t dart outside. And always make sure your pet it wearing proper identification—if for any reason he or she does escape, a collar with ID tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver for a lost pet.

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Summer Pet Care

When the lazy days of barbecues and swimming pools roll around, you can make them even better by sharing them with your favorite pet. By following a few summer pet safety tips, you can keep your animal friends healthy and enjoy the months of sun and fun.

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Never leave your pet in the car. Though it may seem cool outside, the sun can raise the temperature inside your car to 120 degrees Fahrenheit in a matter of minutes, even with the windows rolled down. If you need to run some errands, leave the furry ones at home.
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As you’re outside enjoying the warm weather, keep your pet leashed. It will keep her from getting lost, fighting other animals, and eating and drinking things that could make her sick. This tip isn’t just for dogs--even cats can learn to walk on a leash if you train them. (See How can I teach my cat to walk on a leash?)
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Water, water everywhere. Whether you’re indoors or out, both you and your pet need access to lots of fresh water during the summer, so check her water bowl several times a day to be sure it’s full. If you and your furry friend venture forth for the afternoon, bring plenty of water for both of you.
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Pets need sunscreen too. Though all that fur helps protect her, your pet can get sunburned, particularly if she has light skin and hair. Sunburn in animals can cause problems similar to those it can cause in people, including pain, peeling, and skin cancer. So keep your pet out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and when you do go out, rub a bit of sunblock on unprotected areas like the tips of her ears, the skin around her lips, and the tip of her nose.
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Say no to tangles. Keeping your pet well groomed will help her hair do what it was designed to do: protect her from the sun and insulate her from the heat. If she has extremely thick hair or a lot of mats and tangles, her fur may trap too much heat, so you may want to clip her. (See Should I shave my thick-furred dog in the summer?)
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Watch out for antifreeze. Hot weather may tempt your pet to drink from puddles in the street, which can contain antifreeze and other chemicals. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that animals like, but it’s extremely toxic. When you’re walking your pet, make sure she doesn’t sneak a drink from the street.
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Be cautious on humid days. Humidity interferes with animals’ ability to rid themselves of excess body heat. When we overheat we sweat, and when the sweat dries it takes excess heat with it. Our four-legged friends only perspire around their paws, which is not enough to cool the body. To rid themselves of excess heat, animals pant. Air moves through the nasal passages, which picks up excess heat from the body. As it is expelled through the mouth, the extra heat leaves along with it. Although this is a very efficient way to control body heat, it is severely limited in areas of high humidity or when the animal is in close quarters.
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Make sure your pet doesn’t overexert herself. Though exercise is an important part of keeping your dog or cat at a healthy weight, which helps her body stay cool, overdoing it can cause her to overheat. Keep the walks to a gentle pace and make sure she has plenty of water. If she’s panting a lot or seems exhausted, it’s time to stop.
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Take it easy on pets that can’t deal with the heat. Elderly, very young, and ill animals have a hard time regulating their body temperature, so make sure they stay cool and out of the sun on steamy summer days. Dogs with snub noses, such as Pekingese, pugs, and bulldogs, have a hard time staying cool because they can’t pant efficiently, so they also need to stay out of the heat. Overweight dogs are also more prone to overheating, because their extra layers of fat act as insulation, which traps heat in their bodies and restricts their breathing capabilities.
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Bring them inside. Animals shouldn’t be left outside unsupervised on long, hot days, even in the shade. Shade can move throughout the afternoon, and pets can become ill quickly if they overheat, so keep them inside as much as possible. If you must leave your pet in the backyard, keep a close eye on her and bring her in when you can.
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Keep an eye out for heatstroke. Heatstroke is a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has heatstroke (see "Signs of Heatstroke,"below), you must act quickly and calmly. Have someone call a veterinarian immediately. In the meantime, lower the animal’s body temperature by applying towels soaked in cool water to the hairless areas of the body. Often the pet will respond after only a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again with his temperature soaring back up or falling to well below what is normal. With this in mind, remember that it is imperative to get the animal to a veterinarian immediately. Once your pet is in the veterinarian’s care, treatment may include further cooling techniques, intravenous fluid therapy to counter shock, or medication to prevent or reverse brain damage.

Even with emergency treatment, heatstroke can be fatal. The best cure is prevention, and Fido and Fluffy are relying on you to keep them out of harm’s way. Summer does not have to be fraught with peril--with ample precaution, both you and your furry friends can enjoy those long, hot dog-days of summer.
Signs of Heatstroke:

* Panting
* Staring
* Anxious expression
* Refusal to obey commands
* Warm, dry skin
* High fever
* Rapid heartbeat
* Vomiting
* Collapse

Disaster Prepardness

Emergencies come in many forms, and they may require anything from a brief absence from your home to permanent evacuation. Each type of disaster requires different measures to keep your pets safe. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pets is to be prepared.
Pet Rescue Sticker

Step 1 Get a Rescue Alert Sticker
This easy-to-use sticker will let people know that pets are inside your home. Make sure it is visible to rescue workers, and that it includes 1) the types and number of pets in your household; 2) the name of your veterinarian; and 3) your veterinarian's phone number. If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write "EVACUATED" across the stickers.

To get a free emergency pet alert sticker for your home, please fill out our online order form; please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery. Your local pet supply store may also sell similar stickers.

Step 2 Arrange a Safe Haven
Arrange a safe haven for your pets in the event of evacuation. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND. Remember, if it isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. They may become trapped or escape and be exposed to numerous life-threatening hazards. Note that not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so it is imperative that you have determined where you will bring your pets ahead of time:

* Contact your veterinarian for a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities.
* Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets.
* Identify hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets.
* Ask friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to take in your pet.

Step 3 Emergency Supplies and Traveling Kits
Keep an Evac-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:

* Pet first-aid kit and guide book (ask your vet what to include, or visit the ASPCA Store to buy one online)
* 3-7 days' worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two months)
* Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)
* Litter or paper toweling
* Liquid dish soap and disinfectant
* Disposable garbage bags for clean-up
* Pet feeding dishes
* Extra harness and leash (Note: harnesses are recommended for safety and security)
* Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
* Bottled water, at least 7 days' worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry place and replace every two months)
* A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet
* Flashlight
* Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)
* Recent photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make "Lost" posters)
* Especially for cats: Pillowcase or EvackSack, toys, scoopable litter
* Especially for dogs: Long leash and yard stake, toys and chew toys, a week's worth of cage liner.

You should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Items to include: Batteries, duct tape, flashlight, radio, multi-tool, tarp, rope, permanent marker, spray paint, baby wipes, protective clothing and footwear, extra cash, rescue whistle, important phone numbers, extra medication and copies of medical and insurance information.

Step 4 Choose “Designated Caregivers”
This step will take considerable time and thought. When choosing a temporary caregiver, consider someone who lives close to your residence. He or she should be someone who is generally home during the day while you are at work or has easy access to your home. A set of keys should be given to this trusted individual. This may work well with neighbors who have pets of their own—you may even swap responsibilities, depending upon who has accessibility.

When selecting a permanent caregiver, you’ll need to consider other criteria. This is a person to whom you are entrusting the care of your pet in the event that something should happen to you. When selecting this "foster parent," consider people who have met your pet and have successfully cared for animals in the past. Be sure to discuss your expectations at length with a permanent caregiver, so he or she understands the responsibility of caring for your pet.

Step 5 Evacuation Preparation
If you must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario. If you think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. To minimize evacuation time, take these simple steps:

* Store an emergency kit and leashes as close to an exit as possible.
* Make sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification. Your pet's ID tag should contain his name, telephone number, and any urgent medical needs. Be sure to write your pet's name, your name and contact information on your pet's carrier.
* The ASPCA recommends microchipping your pet as a more permanent form of identification. A microchip is implanted in the animal's shoulder area, and can be read by scanner at most animal shelters.
* Always bring pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets can become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis.
* Consider your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your pet outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster.

Step 6 Geographic and Climatic Considerations
Do you live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as tornadoes, earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.

* Determine well in advance which rooms offer safe havens. These rooms should be clear of hazards such as windows, flying debris, etc.
* Choose easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe zones.
* Access to a supply of fresh water is particularly important. In areas that may lose electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have access to water during a power outage or other crises.
* In the event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter.

If emergency officials recommend that you stay in your home, it's crucial that you keep your pets with you. Keep your Evac-Pack and supplies close at hand. Your pets may become stressed during the in-house confinement, so you may consider crating them for safety and comfort.
Special Considerations for Birds

* Birds should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier.
* In cold weather, make certain you have a blanket over your pet’s cage. This may also help reduce the stress of traveling.
* In warm weather, carry a spray bottle to periodically moisten your bird's feathers.
* Have recent photos available, and keep your bird’s leg bands on for identification.
* If the carrier does not have a perch, line it with paper towels that you can change frequently.
* Keep the carrier in as quiet an area as possible.
* It is particularly imperative that birds eat on a daily basis, so purchase a timed feeder. If you need to leave your bird unexpectedly, the feeder will ensure his daily feeding schedule.
* Items to keep on hand: Catch net, heavy towel, blanket or sheet to cover cage, cage liner.

Special Considerations for Reptiles

* A snake may be transported in a pillowcase, but you should have permanent and secure housing for him when you reach a safe place.
* Take a sturdy bowl that is large for your pet to soak in. It’s also a good idea to bring along a heating pad or other warming device, such as a hot water bottle.
* Lizards can be transported like birds (see above).

Special Considerations for Small Animals

* Small animals, such as hamsters, gerbils, mice and guinea pigs, should be transported in secure carriers with bedding materials, food and food bowls.
* Items to keep on hand: Salt lick, extra water bottle, small hidebox or tube, a week's worth of bedding.

What are the Dangers of Mutating Pet Flu Viruses, and Does Your Pet Need a Flu Shot?

Canine influenza virus (CIV) is a new virus that has been recently identified as a part of the canine infectious respiratory disease complex, otherwise known as kennel cough.

“Kennel cough” is a collection of viruses that cause upper respiratory disease in dogs.

This new virus is causing a bit of a scare, similar to that of the human H1N1, swine flu virus. Hopefully, this information will put your worst fears at ease.

What is This New Canine Influenza?

All viruses are categorized by their surface protein, of which there are two: “H” and “N.”

The canine virus is categorized as H3N8. Interestingly, the H3N8 virus is also the categorization for the equine (horse) influenza virus, which has been in the US for over 40 years.

Epidemiologists knew dogs could acquire this virus from horses, but veterinarians also know the flu virus is very adaptable to change, which is what happened in this situation.

In this case, the equine virus mutated, and is now capable of being transmitted from dog to dog, without an equine host.

It’s worth noting that CIV has no correlation with any of the human viruses, including the avian flu, or the swine flu. There have been no documented cases of dogs acquiring the swine flu virus.

Contributing Factors that Promote Spreading of Canine Influenza

Two major factors have been identified that can contribute to animals breaking with this infection:

Overcrowding, such as dog kennels, shelters, and racing facilities
Stress, which suppresses your dog’s immune system
Racing greyhounds, for example, experience very stressful conditions, but there are many situations that can cause your dog to experience stress, and environmental factors such as toxins also play an important role.

Signs and Symptoms of Canine Influenza

The symptoms of CIV are quite similar to that of the human flu virus, including:

Cough
Runny nose
Lethargy
Fever
The incubation period for the H3N8 virus is two to four days, at which point you’ll notice upper respiratory symptoms. The symptoms typically last for about 7 days, during which time your dog is infectious.

Naturally, you’ll want to avoid him mingling with other dogs during this time in order to not spread the infection.

If your dog’s symptoms are progressively getting worse, you’ll want to take your dog to a veterinarian – ideally a holistic veterinarian, who has access to a whole arsenal of natural treatments that can help. To find an integrative vet in your area, visit www.ahvma.org.

Most dogs, however, will not need medical treatment.

The viral infection is temporary, and under normal circumstances your dog’s immune system will be quite capable of overcoming the virus naturally.

How to Boost Your Dog’s Immune System

Regardless of the type of infectious disease, there are strategies you can use to help bolster your dog’s natural defenses, including:

Feed your dog a balanced, raw food, species appropriate diet. Remember that a balanced diet needs to include adequate amounts of trace minerals, antioxidants and fatty acids
Reduce stress by reducing your dog’s environmental toxin load
These common sense strategies will help your dog's immune system remain strong and resilient.

While there is much talk about toxins wreaking havoc with human health, many forget that animals, both domestic and wild, are equally at risk from environmental poisons, which increases their toxic burden and creates biological stress.

To help reduce your pet’s environmental toxin load, make sure your dog has access to pure drinking water and optimal air quality. As you may already know, indoor air quality is typically far worse than outdoors, so you may want to invest in a good indoor air purifier, both for your own health as well as your pet’s.

You’ll also want to avoid as many chemicals as possible. This includes chemicals sprayed around your house, such as herbicides, pesticides and insecticides, as well as those applied directly to your pet, such as flea and tick medications.

Last, but certainly not least, you’ll want to limit the amount of vaccines you give to your dog.

Vaccines are metabolic stressors that can distract your pet’s immune system, and actually open them up to infectious

It’s important to realize that dogs do not require annual vaccinations. For more in-depth information about vaccinations, please see my previous article, When it Comes to Vaccinating Your Pet, Less is More.

What About the CIV Vaccine?

I recommend NOT vaccinating against CIV, since most house pets will not be in situations that warrant the use of the vaccine, such as in overcrowded boarding facilities, race tracks, or pet shelters.

Worse yet, some uneducated people are asking their vets to administer the CIV vaccine to prevent the human H1N1 flu, and some vets are more than willing to comply, taking advantage of their ignorance. However, these two strains are completely unrelated and one vaccine will not protect against the other. Remember, dogs do not acquire swine flu.

Remember, in the vast majority of cases, dogs recover uneventfully from their “dog flu” on their own. Only rarely is hospitalization needed -- usually only for very young puppies or immuno-suppressed animals, such as older, debilitated or immensely stressed animals.

If you have cause to believe that your dog has been exposed to the CIV virus, your veterinarian can do a PCR nasal swab, or take paired serum samples to confirm this diagnosis, but in the vast majority of cases you don’t need to do either, unless you can clearly see that your dog is unraveling from potential infection.

If your dog has been exposed I do recommend, however, considering the common sense strategies like adding turmeric, oregano, and fresh garlic to your dog’s diet, which all boost natural immune defenses. Discuss appropriate doses for your dog’s age and current immune status with your integrative veterinarian.

You can also use adaptogenic herbs, such as ashwagandha, tulsi, bach flower essences, or essential oil of lavender, which can help limit the amount of immune suppression that might occur when your pet is exposed to intermittent stressors.

Your best bet is to help your dog develop a functional immune system through adequate diet and stress reduction.

Beware! Halloween Candy is Just One Type of Food that Could Kill Your Pet

In 2008, the Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA) handled over 140,000 cases pertaining to pets that were exposed to toxic substances, and many included everyday household products in and around their own homes.

In response ASPCA put together the top 10 list of pet poisons in 2008, and it’s important that you become familiar with this list to help prevent any mishaps at home.

The Top 10 Poisons of 2008

1. Human Medications: 50,000 cases

It’s easy for pets to snatch pills from counters and bed-side tables, or quickly eat them if you’ve dropped a couple on the floor. Both over-the-counter and prescription medications including painkillers, antidepressants and even dietary supplements can be problematic.

2. Insecticides: 31,000 cases

One of the most common exposures involved using chemical flea and tick products incorrectly, such as applying a topical product for dogs on a cat.

3. People Food: 15,000 cases

Grapes, raisins, avocado and certain citrus fruits can all be dangerous for pets, but one of the worst offenders was chocolate, which contains large amounts of methylxanthines. If ingested it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination and hyperactivity, and in severe cases abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures.

4. Rodenticides: 8,000 cases

Rat and mouse poison can contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to pets. Aside from eating the poison itself, pets can also become sick from eating a rodent that’s ingested poison. Exposure to rat and mouse poison can cause bleeding, seizures and kidney damage.

5. Veterinary Medications: 8,000 cases

Drugs meant for animals can still cause side effects, especially when they are misapplied or improperly dispensed. Some of the most common toxic exposures involved non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements.

6. Plants: 8,000 cases

Azaleas, rododendrons, sago palms, lilies, kalanchoe, and schefflera are common houseplants that can be toxic to pets. Lilies are especially toxic to cats and can cause kidney failure even in small amounts.

7. Chemical Hazards: 5,500 cases

Many chemicals around your home can symptoms ranging from gastrointestinal upset and respiratory difficulties to depression and chemical burns in your pets. Examples include antifreeze, paint thinner, drain cleaners and pool/spa chemicals.

8. Household Cleaners: 3,200 cases

Bleaches, detergents and disinfectants contain chemicals that can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and irritation to the respiratory tract in your pets.

9. Heavy Metals: 3,000 cases

Metals such as lead, zinc and mercury can all poison your pets. Lead is especially widespread and pets can be exposed via paint chips, linoleum and lead dust that’s produced when surfaces in old homes are scraped and sanded.

10. Fertilizer: 2,000 cases

If your lawn has been sprayed with a chemical fertilizer it’s essential to keep your pet off of it. Prevention is the best tip for avoiding accidental exposure to these potentially toxic chemicals.

What to Do if Your Pet is Poisoned

If your pet becomes poisoned, don’t panic. If your pet is showing symptoms, go to an emergency vet in your area immediately. Otherwise, if you think your pet may have gotten into a toxin but you’re not sure, collect any remaining toxic product and call Poison Control (888-426-4435), which comes with a $60 consultation charge. Have your pet’s age, breed, sex, and weight information, along with any remnants of the toxin, on hand to provide to the toxicologist.

You may also be asked to specify what the potential toxic substance was, about how long ago your pet was exposed and about how much your pet consumed.

But, again, if your pet is already showing symptoms of poisoning, such as respiratory distress, seizures, or loss of consciousness, go to your emergency vet immediately so your pet can get the urgent help he needs.

Which “Human” Foods are Toxic for Pets?

People food was the third top poison to pets in 2008, and while certain human foods can be very healthy for dogs and cats -- and it’s certainly preferable to feed your pets fresh, species-appropriate human-grade food as much as possible -- there are some foods that are toxic to pets.

Here are some human foods you absolutely should not feed your pets:

Grapes and raisins, which can sometimes cause kidney failure in very low amounts

Chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, which are both classified as methylxanthines; these can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, tremors, and potentially death (the more bitter the chocolate, the more toxic it is for your pets)

Onions and members of the onion family, such as leeks and chives; these can cause damage to red blood cells that could result in anemia in both dogs and cats. The exception is garlic, which is metabolized into a different metabolite than onions that is not toxic to pets. A small amount of fresh garlic fed to pets daily actually has some great health benefits.

Macadamia nuts may cause problems including weakness, depression, vomiting, ataxia, tremors, and hyperthermia.

Rising bread dough can be life-threatening – The bread dough itself is not toxic but the animal's body heat can cause the dough to rise in the stomach, doubling or tripling in size and leading to impaction. The dough can also produce ethanol, which causes animals to stumble and become disoriented, lethargic and depressed.

Xylitol, a sugar substitute common in sugar-free chewing gum, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia and liver damage in dogs; if your dog has ingested gum, bring your dog to the emergency vet immediately!

Again, if you know your pet has ingested a toxin and is showing signs of distress, take him to your emergency vet immediately. If your pet is not showing any symptoms yet, but you suspect he may have ingested a toxin, call Poison Control at 888-426-4435 to find out the next best steps to take.

These 3 Things May Indicate Your Pet has a Bladder Problem ...

To understand your pet’s urine ph, it’s important to understand the Ph scale. Seven is neutral, everything above 7 is alkaline, everything below 7 is acidic.

Cats and dogs, being carnivores, are designed to have a slightly acidic urine Ph -- optimally between 6 and 6.5.

Dogs and cats, of course, are designed to eat meat, and this diet drops their urine into this slightly acidic range. Vegetarian animals, like goats and horses, have a more alkaline urine because they eat primarily grains and grasses.

A problem arises, however, when dogs and cats, which are designed to eat meat, are fed a grain-based diet, as is the case with many commercial dog and cat foods. This causes their urine to become more alkaline, which may lead to three major problems.

The Bladder Risks of Feeding Your Pet a High-Grain Diet

Three major problems come about when dogs or cats develop alkaline urine:

Infection, because the natural bladder defenses are unable to maintain the urine’s correct Ph. Urine is sterile when kept at the appropriate 6 to 6.5 Ph, but when it creeps up toward the alkaline side the urine loses it’s natural defenses becomes more hospitable environment for infection to occur.

Cystitis (bladder inflammation). Cats especially can end up with chronic inflammation of the bladder, a painful condition that can lead to bleeding and secondary infection.

Urinary crystals or stones. When a urine Ph becomes alkaline, minerals can settle out of the urine and form crystals, which are microscopic, sharp particles that irritate and inflame the bladder. If crystals remain in the bladder long enough, they can fuse together to form stones.

So a healthy urine Ph is incredibly important for your pet’s bladder health, not only to prevent infection but also chronic inflammation, crystals and stones.

What to Do if You Suspect Your Pet Has a Bladder Problem

If your pet is urinating outside the litter box or around the house, it could be an indication of a bladder problem. In this case, it’s important that you drop a urine sample off with your veterinarian so they can perform a urinalysis.

A urinalysis will provide valuable information about why your pet is having urinary problems. In addition to providing information about the presence of blood, protein, glucose, keytones and bilirubin, a urinalysis will also determine how well your pet can concentrate his or her urine … a good indication of kidney health. Urinalysis will also detect white blood cells, which means there is inflammation or infection, and a urine culture and sensitivity can determine if bacteria is present, and what type, to help devise a treatment plan.

If an infection is present, medication may be needed to treat the problem. However, sometimes pets experience inflammation or crystals without any infection present. In this latter case a different set of medications may initially be needed, but ultimately, in both situations, this is often a sign that it may be time to change their diet.

What Type of Diet is Best for Your Pet’s Bladder Health?

If your pet is experiencing chronic bladder problems, poor or improper diet is the culprit in the vast majority of cases.

A prescription diet, which many vets may offer you, typically combines high-carb foods with medications to drop your pet's urine Ph. Doesn't it make much more sense to feed your pet a food that does not contain those alkalizing carbohydrates, and that is naturally low in carbs?

By feeding your pet a species-appropriate, raw food diet, which will naturally be low in carbs, you can often help them achieve a perfect urinary Ph balance without the need for poor-quality prescription diets.

Top Pet Dangers to Avoid on Labor Day

Labor Day Dangers to Avoid


Labor Day weekend marks summer’s unofficial end, and many families are heading out—with their companion animals—for end-of-season getaways. The ASPCA hopes you enjoy the last days of summer and reminds you to make sure your four-legged friends enjoy a safe holiday, too. By following these simple safety tips, you can rest assured your pet will remain happy and healthy during his last summer blast!

Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.

Always assign a dog guardian. No matter where you’re celebrating, be sure to assign a friend or member of the family to keep an eye on your pooch—especially if you’re not in a fenced-in yard or other secure area. With all the festivities, it’s easy to overlook a dog on the run!

Made in the shade. Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water, and make sure they have a shady place to escape the sun. Be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.

Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of paws’ reach. Certain types of matches contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing—or even kidney disease in severe cases. Lighter fluid can be irritating to skin, and if ingested, can produce gastrointestinal irritation and central nervous system depression. If lighter fluid is inhaled, pneumonia and breathing problems could develop.

Keep your pet on his normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give your pet severe indigestion and diarrhea. This is particularly true for older animals who have more delicate digestive systems and nutritional requirements. And keep in mind that people foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, salt, yeast dough, grapes and raisins can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.

Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingesting any of these items can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression in your pets, and if inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia.

Never leave your dog alone in the car. Traveling with your dog means occasionally you’ll make stops in places where he’s not permitted. Be sure to rotate dog walking duties between family members, and never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time, even with the windows open—not to mention it’s illegal in several states!

Make a safe splash. Don’t leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.

10 Household Items Poisonous to Dogs

ASPCA’s Poison Control Center says many household items can be poisonous to dogs.


The ASPCA last week revealed that it managed more than 116,000 calls to its Animal Poison Control Center hotline in 2006, many of which pertained to pet poisonings from common household items.

“While the reason is not clear, calls in virtually each of these categories seems to be on the rise,” said Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president with the ASPCA, who manages the ASPCA’s Midwest Office, which houses the APCC.

During National Poison Prevention Week, from March 18 to 24, the ASPCA is advising pet owners to stay alert to the possibility of poisoning from these common household items:

1. Human medications: The ASPCA says this category has been number one on its list of common items hazardous to dogs for years, including in 2006. Last year, more than 78,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the poison control center — a 69 percent increase over 2005.

2. Insecticides: The APCC handled more than 27,000 pet poisonings pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects in 2006, up more than 28 percent from 2005. “A key factor in the safe use of products that eliminate fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs, is reading and following label instructions exactly,” Hansen said.

3. Veterinary medications: The APCC says it managed more than 12,000 cases in 2006 involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements — a 93 percent hike in volume.

4. Plants: The number of pet poisonings involving plants also shot up by more than 111 percent in 2006 to over 9,300. While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from dogs, it is also a good idea to discourage dogs from nibbling on any variety of plant, as even non-toxic plants can lead to minor stomach upsets.

5. Rodenticides: Last year, approximately 8,800 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received by the APCC, representing an increase of more than 27 percent over 2005.

6. Household cleaners: In 2006, the APCC received approximately 7,200 calls of pet poisonings pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants.

7. Chocolate: Always a common food-related call, more than 4,800 chocolate calls were received by the APCC last year, an 85 percent increase from 2005. Chocolate is poisonous and potentially fatal to dogs. “Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning,” Hansen said.

8. Chemical hazards: A newcomer to the top 10 pet poisons, this includes such harmful items as volatile petroleum-based products, alcohols, acids and gases. In 2006, the APCC received more than 4,100 calls related to chemical hazards — a jump in call volume of more than 300 percent.

9. Physical hazards: While not necessarily all toxic, items in this group include objects that could pose a choking hazard, risk for intestinal obstruction, or other physical injury. In 2006, the number of pet cases related to a physical hazard grew 460 percent to over 3,800.

10. Home improvement products: In 2006, about 2,100 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues and other products commonly used in construction were managed by the APCC — up 17 percent from 2005.

What Dangerous Byproducts Lurk in Cat Food?

A pair of glowing green eyes shimmers in the moonlit night…still and watching. Waiting. Patient. Then suddenly, like a spring—the shadowy figure leaps out and pounces on its unsuspecting prey.

Unwilling to end the hunt so easily, the Mighty Hunter tosses it into the air, letting it fly, again and again, down to the ground and up again, letting it fall to the earth and scamper free.

Just when Little Gray thinks it’s crafted an escape, it’s captured again. When Little Gray finally gasps its last breath, the Mighty Hunter revels in his moonlight snack.

Chances are, since you’re reading this article, you’re a cat owner and the above scenario rings a familiar bell. Why do cats display this perpetual hunting behavior, despite having a full bowl of kibble inside?

Cats were simply created to catch and kill prey. They are hard-wired that way.

House cats descended from their carnivorous wildcat ancestors who roamed the desert plains of Africa, feeding on mice and other small mammals. They have sharp, interlocking canines built for grasping, puncturing and tearing animal flesh. Their jaws are hinged to move up and down, unlike herbivores such as cows and horses whose jaws move side to side, performing a grinding motion that breaks apart fibrous material.

The first documentation we have of cat domestication is from Egypt, where they used them in granaries to keep mouse populations down.

Gradually, over the last thousand years, kitties have warmed their way into our hearts and through our front doors. We discovered what lovely companions they could be. Although they no longer have to fend for themselves, their transition from the wild has not been altogether helpful to their overall health, sadly enough.

It wasn’t until the early 1900s that we produced the first bag of cat food, more for our own convenience than the well being of our feline friends, whose digestive systems were designed to process live meat, a far cry from dry kibble.

The cat is more than a carnivore—she is an obligate carnivore. To survive, the cat must eat meat.

Basic Cat Nutritional Requirements
Cats, like all animals, require six classes of nutrients:
Water
Energy
Protein
Essential fatty acids
Minerals
Vitamins
Notice that carbohydrates are not listed. Cats have essentially NO requirement for carbohydrates, deriving all of their energy needs from a diet rich in protein and fat. The only carbohydrates their ancestors ate were the vegetables in the digestive tracts of their prey, which were already “pre-digested.” These carbohydrates made up about 3-5 percent of the cats’ diet.

The metabolic requirement for glucose in your cat is derived from proteins (glucogenic amino acids) and fats (glycerol)—she has no mechanism for converting carbohydrates to energy, like dogs and humans do. This is why animal protein is so crucial for cats.

Cats need more protein than other carnivores.

One reason for this is, certain liver enzymes that break down proteins are always functional in cats (they are turned “on” and “off” in other animals). Therefore, your cat uses some energy merely to fuel this process, and that energy has to come from protein.

Two amino acids that are particularly important for your cat are arginine and taurine. Cats lack the enzyme that allows them to convert other amino acids into arginine, so they must obtain this from their diet. Cats use taurine alone for bile salt synthesis, so they need much more of this than other animals.

The secondary source of energy for cats is fat. Cats require more fat than dogs or humans—it is recommended that 15 to 40 percent of the energy content of your cat’s diet be derived from fat.

Unlike proteins, excess fat can be wasted/excreted by your cat’s system; therefore, it’s not a burden to her kidneys. Consequently, as a cat enters her senior years, the fat content of her diet should be increased somewhat while the protein is decreased proportionately. This way, the proper energy content is maintained while easing the burden on her aging kidneys. 1

Even your cats’ physical organ structure reflects her highly specialized digestive system.

She has a fairly small stomach and small, short intestine, because her diet is supposed to be concentrated, highly digestible, and low in residue—i.e., mostly protein. When she eats an excess of carbohydrates, much of the food is only partially digested by the time it reaches the large intestine for fecal formation, overloading the digestive and excretory systems. 2

What’s In Your Bag of Cat Food?
Now, take a look at the label on that bag of dry cat food in your pantry. Even if you have a “reputable” brand, chances are it has a fair amount of vegetable-derived carbohydrate and grain ingredients:

Corn
Wheat
Rice
Soy
One primary reason is that it’s hard to make a dry kibble without those things. Typical dry foods are 35-40 percent carbohydrate, and some are as high as 50 percent.

So, you’ve been feeding your precious felines a diet lower in protein, lower in moisture, and higher in carbohydrate than what they are biologically designed to eat.

The end result?

Cats now share one major health problem with their human companions: obesity.

The Dangers of Obesity
Twenty five to 33 percent of cats are overweight or obese. In fact, obesity is the most common nutritional disorder among dogs and cats in the United States today.

In addition to dietary factors, neutered or spayed cats actually require about 25-30 percent fewer calories than non-neutered. There is some evidence that neutering might lead to disordered leptin control of body fat in male cats. Just like you and me, cats store excess carbohydrates as fat.

I’m not suggesting you shouldn’t neuter your Tom, but you should adjust his diet appropriately.

Obese kitties are at risk for:

Diabetes
Joint problems
Heart disease
Lower urinary tract diseases
FHL (Feline Hepatic Lipodosis, aka “fatty liver syndrome”)
Kidney problems, and
Skin conditions
The majority of diabetes in cats is type II, at 65 percent, whereas in dogs, the overwhelming majority is type I diabetes (insulin-dependent). Since it is known that type II diabetes can be controlled and even prevented through diet, you have a very good chance of preventing your cat from developing this condition with the right choice of diet.

Excessive carbohydrates is directly linked to diabetes in cats. Carbohydrates break down into sugar, and sugar stresses your cat’s pancreas. Your kitty’s pancreas is designed to secrete insulin to balance the blood sugar, but when you’re feeding him an excessive amount of carbohydrates, which shouldn’t really be in the foods in the first place, diabetes can result.

High carbohydrate diets can lead to serious bladder problems for your kitty. Excessive carbs cause alkalization of your cat’s urine, which causes crystals cystitis and painful inflammation of the bladder.

Kidney and bladder stones can also occur from feeding your kitty food he wasn’t biologically designed to consume. In fact, the leading cause of death of cats in the United States is kidney failure.

Important Concerns Regarding the Overweight Kitty
Overweight cats have one particularly important health caution when it comes to diet and weight loss that I must mention, because it can be life-threatening. It is called Feline Hepatic Lipidosis (FHL, aka “Fatty Liver Syndrome”) and is characterized by excess fat accumulation in the liver of cats.

Fatty Liver Syndrome is the most common form of liver disease in cats in North America, and it is unique to felines.

It can occur in cats of any age or breed, and it occurs after a period of anorexia (loss of appetite) of a few days’ to a few weeks’ duration. After a few days without adequate food, the cat’s body will begin to use fat for energy. Cats do not metabolize fat well; therefore, the fat cells build up in the liver and rapidly prevent it from functioning normally. It isn’t long before the liver shuts down completely, which is life threatening if left untreated.

The cat developing FHL will begin to feel sick, which further suppresses his appetite, which accelerates the problem into a vicious cycle. Symptoms commonly seen with FHL are anorexia, weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, jaundice (yellow tinge to the skin, inside of the ears, and gums), and occasionally behavioral or neurological signs such as excessive drooling, blindness, coma or seizures.

Are You Feeding Your Cat High Quality Protein?
Another issue you have to contend with is the quality of the protein found in commercial cat foods.

Initially, proteins used in cat foods were from fresh, living, whole sources. But in time, as with all big business, the almighty dollar demanded cheap substitutes. This is when rendering entered the scene.

Rendering is the recycling of animal remains into usable material. It involves cooking down raw animal parts to separate out the moisture and fat. Rendering plants are like giant recycling kitchens, boiling down the carcasses of everything from road kill, dead and diseased farm animals, poultry waste and supermarket rejects.

When you see ingredients such as meat meal, fishmeal, poultry meal, meat by-products, tallow, beef fat, chicken fat, etc—these came from a rendering plant, which were then sold to feed industries, including pet food manufacturers.

Rendered means “not for human consumption.”

As important as recycling is today, the problem comes from the contaminants that go into the mix. Rendering plants are unavoidably processing toxic waste.

Animals are frequently tossed into “the pit” with flea collars still on, so you have insecticides going in. Pharmaceuticals given to livestock, euthanasia drugs given to pets, and heavy metals from pet ID tags, surgical pins and needles, and a variety of plastic ends up in the toxic soup. Every week, millions of packages of expired plastic-wrapped meat go through the rendering process and become one of the unwanted ingredients in animal feed.

Obviously, this recycled, ultra processed matter does not offer your kitty much in terms of nutritional value, and the sad fact is that rendered material exists in more than 90 percent of cat foods on the market today.

There is some good news, however.

There are a few smaller companies who offer quality cat food made with human-grade ingredients. They are a bit harder to find, but they’re out there. If you are in love with your current pet food and the label looks decent, I suggest you call the company and simply ask if the food is approved for human consumption. That’s a good start.

Canned or Dry?
From the perspective of moisture content, canned food is by far superior to dry food in meeting your cat’s needs, for the reasons discussed in the previous section about moisture content. Of course, we’re used to convenience, and it’s really easy and quick to scoop some kibble into a dish and leave it out, and expect our kitties to thrive.

Unfortunately, this is a convenience we need to break.

Dry food has been touted to be the saver of cat’s teeth. Supposedly, chewing the dry food cleans their teeth. However, this has not proven true since most cats swallow dry food whole, chewing very little of it, and what does get chewed often gets stuck between their teeth due to the type of jaw motion cats have. There, it ferments, causing dental problems.

In general, canned food is also higher in protein than dry kibble. The carbohydrate isn’t needed for “structural” purposes. Since your kitty doesn’t need the carbs for nutrition, this is just one more reason that canned food is better for him.

I challenge you to gradually wean your kitty onto a high quality, human-grade canned cat food. It is important to do this in a gentle way since cats don’t respond well to a mandate. It requires patience. But the benefit to your kitty’s health and happiness will be so worth the time and effort.

Once your cat is eating human-grade canned food, consider weaning him or her onto a balanced raw food diet. This is the most biologically appropriate food you could offer your cat.

What to Look For in Your Cat Chow
The canned food should be USDA-inspected and declared safe for human consumption, and it should contain essentially no carbohydrates (less than 3-5 percent). Here are some other considerations:

The use of by-products: Heads, feet, bones, tendons, ligaments, intestines and other unsavory body parts can all be labelled “protein,” but are inferior sources of protein and difficult to digest. This means less nutrition and more clean up.
Chemical preservatives and artificial colors: BHA, BHT, and ethoxoquin can be very harmful to pets. Artificial colors are also linked to health problems.
Grains: Corn, soy, wheat gluten and corn gluten are often used instead of meat, but are nothing more than cheap fillers and are difficult for your cat to digest.
Freshness: Many large manufacturers make pet food in huge batches formulated to last for a very long time, so you may be buying food that has been sitting on warehouse shelves for six months to a year.
Cooking Method: Often companies use rigorous cooking techniques that destroy most of the beneficial nutrients—just like when you boil vegetables to death. The result is poor nutritional quality.
Now, look at the first five ingredients. These play a significant role in the nutritional make-up of the food. Ask yourself these questions:

What are the protein sources? The primary source should come from quality animal protein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients might have more vegetable protein than animal protein, which is not as good for your cat.
What are the fat sources? The primary fat source should be animal-based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus generally more bioavailable to your cat.
Are there by-products? You don’t want any of those!
Are there other health-promoting ingredients? Vegetables and fruits, antioxidants, chelated minerals, bacteria cultures (probiotics), eggs, and essential fatty acids seed meal are excellent things to find in the ingredient list.
However, cats can’t convert ALA to EFA/DHA, so make sure it does not contain flax (unless you need to bulk up your pet’s stool).

You might need to call the manufacturer to get answers to some of these questions, since there is limited information on the label. Any company worth their salt should be happy to have a representative speak with you. Cats should be fed two to three times per day (consult your holistic vet if your cat has health problems). The days of the all-you-can-eat kitty buffet have come to an end.

To stimulate your cat’s desire to try new foods, you have to create a little bit of hunger throughout the day. Cats were meant to fast between meals, so these periods of hunger are actually good for their metabolism (although Sylvester will undoubtedly try to convince you he is close to dying of a cruel and painful starvation). Start by picking up your cat’s bowl in between 2-3 square meals a day. After your cat is regimented to twice daily feeding, begin slowly mixing in new foods with their old diet. With persistence and help from your holistic veterinarian, you can successfully wean your cat onto a healthier diet.

Don’t give in, no matter what! You KNOW how persuasive he can be. There are times your cat will want you to believe he is on his last, dying breath—especially if he’s been free-feeding and has forgotten what hunger feels like--but this will pass as he adjusts to his new routine. Don’t feed your cat when he’s begging for food…stick to feeding your 2-3 meals a day or you’ll only create a monster! By lovingly, yet firmly sticking to your commitment to improve your cat’s diet you can successfully wean you cat onto healthier food and create a healthier future for your feline friend.

Study: Cats control you with meows!

Researcher: Cats have learned to adapt their cries
Updated: Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:50 AM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 14 Jul 2009, 11:49 AM EDT

By LILY FU, Special Contributor
You may think your cat sees you as its owner, but a new study finds that the cat owns you.

LiveScience.com reports that many cats use a kind of meow that's a mix of a purr and a high-pitched cry when they want to be fed. Unlike other meows, many people find this kind of cry difficult to ignore.

"The embedding of a cry within a call that we normally associate with contentment is quite a subtle means of eliciting a response," said Karen McComb of the University of Sussex, who conducted the study. "Solicitation purring is probably more acceptable to humans than overt meowing, which is likely to get cats ejected from the bedroom."

Researchers collected 10 cat cries from different owners. They were then played back for 50 people, not all of whom owned cats. The majority of people found the high-pitched meow mixed with the purr as more urgent and less pleasant as compared to the cries that didn't have the underlying purr.

McComb said she believes that humans are wired to respond to the cries of human babies -- when babies cry, people come to their aid as part of a nurturing instinct. Cats have learned to adapt their cries so that they make it difficult for humans to ignore as they can't with human baby cries.

Cats may have the same method of getting what they want. But they don't all sound the same. The cat in the video below has a very interesting way of saying "hello."

Pets, Protein, Dry Food and Disease

If you’re like most pet owners, your four-legged companion is a beloved member of your family. And just like the humans in your household, you want to give your pet every opportunity for a long and healthy life.

What you might not know is that despite advertising claims, the majority of commercial pet foods are not optimally healthy for your dog or cat. Just as most processed, convenient “people food” is devoid of nutritional value, so is much of the dead, dry pet food sold commercially today.

The pet nutrition industry is very similar to the human food industry – full of hype and false claims, peddling inferior nutritional choices. Much of the so-called “healthy pet foods” on the market contain inferior meat meals, cheap grains like corn and soy, fillers, by-products, food coloring, pesticides, preservatives, and other contaminations.

Case in point: the widespread contamination of melamine (a chemical used in the production of plastics, which imitates protein) rocked the pet food industry not so long ago, and led to thousands of deaths and illnesses. More than 5,600 products by dozens of pet food makers – everything from cheap supermarket brands to prescription-only food – were recalled in the process.

Good nutrition is a fundamental requirement to keep your pet in top physical shape, and improve his or her chances of resisting disease and other degenerative conditions. And when it comes to protein levels and organ health, the more we learn, the more we realize how little we knew before.

Many Commercially Available Pet Foods Can Destroy Your Pet’s Health
“Pet” foods are actually a relatively new addition to the marketplace, only filling a consumer niche for the last 100 years or so. Many proactive, integrative and holistic veterinarians have long recognized the short falls of many commercially available pet foods.

Unfortunately, most widely available pet foods and even many of the brands conventional vets recommend do not contain clean, inspected ingredients, nor are they biologically balanced for your domesticated carnivore (cat) and scavenging carnivore (dog).

Common symptoms associated with regular consumption of commercial pet foods include:

Diarrhea
Increased flatulence
Dull coat
Intermittent vomiting
Prolonged scratching
During the 1980’s and early 1990’s, frustration with low quality food led to the emergence of improved dry pet foods. This higher quality kibble was baked rather than extruded, and contained more diverse ingredients and USDA inspected meats.

During this time pet owners also began to realize the benefits of home cooked diets, where they could control the quantity and quality of ingredients added to their pets’ meals.

However, although these changes addressed some of the quality control issues, and began to address the biological appropriateness of pet food ingredients, it did not address the fact that companion animals were still consuming an entirely dead diet, devoid of all the benefits living foods have to offer.

Dogs and cats evolved to consume living, unprocessed foods, and once you remove the raw food, you disrupt nearly every important biochemical pathway in their body. This is a prescription for disaster, and maintaining your pet on completely cooked and refined foods can clearly impact their organ health.

In fact, a growing number of veterinarians state that processed pet food (kibbled and canned food) is the number one cause of illness and premature death in modern dogs and cats.

In December 1995, the British Journal of Small Animal Practice published a paper contending that processed pet food suppresses animals’ immune systems, and causes:

Liver disease
Kidney disease
Heart disease
Other diseases
Another case in point: In one animal study, performed by Dr. Kollath of the Karolinska Hospital in Stockholm, young animals that were fed cooked and processed foods initially appeared to be healthy. But once they reached adulthood, they began aging quicker than normal and developed degenerative disease symptoms. A control group raised on raw foods aged less quickly and did not develop any degenerative diseases!

Why Your Pet Needs RAW Food
The introduction of commercially available raw food diets in the late ‘90’s offered tremendous additional health benefits to pets everywhere, because many varieties combined USDA inspected meats with human edible-quality vegetables and fewer grains, which is more biologically appropriate.

Several AAFCO approved homemade recipes also became available and contained options for living food additions. To argue whether raw food diets are appropriate for dogs and cats is moot; they have thrived consuming a variety of small prey for thousands of years!

Wild animals also avoid many of the degenerative health issues that plague our current domestic pet population. To suppose that your pet’s health would suffer any less than your own from consuming a highly processed diet, filled with corn and other denatured ingredients, would simply be foolhardy.

Knowledgeable veterinarians have wisely forfeited the concept that cats can become trendy, healthy vegetarians and that dogs can thrive on an entirely grain-based diet. Most of us have the desire to match, as closely as possible, our companions’ current diet to their ancestral diet. This should be common sense.

Of course, this should also be our first choice for our patients, as veterinarians.

The Two Main Problems with a Dry Food Diet
The biggest concern I hear about not feeding dry food is, “But what about their teeth?”

Remember: eating crunchy granola doesn’t brush or clean your teeth. You have to brush your teeth. Likewise, eating crunchy kibble doesn’t brush or clean your pet’s teeth. You still have to brush your pet’s teeth. So please don’t use this rationale to feed your pet a diet of mainly dry foods.

There are the two major problems with an entirely dry food diet.

Protein quality
Moisture content
Protein quality -- For years, protein got a really bad rap. More recently, proactive veterinarians have tried to re-educate pet owners about protein, protein quality, and protein requirements. Contrary to popular belief, protein requirements actually increase as pets age to combat catabolic processes, which can lead to muscle wasting. We have also learned that the biological availability of certain protein sources actually determines how easy or difficult they are to metabolize. For example, snouts and feathers, although 100 percent protein, are not nearly as digestible as lean muscle meat.

The quality of protein your pet eats is critical to reduce organ stress over time. The scary truth is that the majority of commercial pet foods on the market today are using rendered meats that are not approved for human consumption. Because kibbled foods made with these poor quality meats are so difficult to digest and assimilate, they can actually cause organ disease.

Moisture content -- Moisture content is another problem inherent in a mainly dry food diet. Our carnivorous companions were designed to consume non-dehydrated foods. Species appropriate diets -- foods free of corn, wheat, rice and soy -- formulated in their biologically correct form, meaning raw or minimally processed, with non-denatured proteins, contain all of the moisture needed to process the food with minimum metabolic stress.

Did you know that the natural diet of dogs and cats is up to 70 percent water?

That’s right: rabbits and mice, like our bodies, are primarily composed of water. Our pet’s bodies have evolved to consume a diet that is rich with water, not dehydrated, and not cooked.

When food is cooked and dehydrated (which is how kibble is produced), several things happen, the most detrimental of which is that the food becomes dry. Far too dry to be healthy.

This requires your pet’s body to provide sufficient moisture to reconstitute the food in their digestive tract. Although some animals may make a noble effort to consume enough water, many animals, and most cats, don’t.

The Association of Feline Practitioners recommends owners feed cats a diet of primarily canned foods (vs. dry foods) for this very reason.

What are the most notable physiologic changes when our companion animals consume a dehydrated, poor quality protein diet?

Kidney stress
Liver stress
Metabolic stress
A lifetime of minor dehydration is stressful to multiple organ systems, but most notably the kidneys. It’s important to realize that this can easily be remedied by feeding canned or living food diets, and can easily be avoided by feeding foods that have not been dehydrated (dry food).

Diet Recommendations
The convenient alternative to our pet’s ancestral diet looks great at first glance, but poses significant health risks if fed as a sole diet indefinitely. Remember, our pet’s bodies are resilient. They can eat a variety of suboptimal, metabolically stressful foods on occasion and be fine, but because it’s our goal to provide a diet that most closely fits our companion’s biological requirements, we don’t recommend a lifetime of kibble.

Our goal is to provide a diet that mimics our pets biological nutritional requirements as closely as possible…in this case it means rethinking the “lifetime of dry food” theory. Thankfully, we can make one healthy lifestyle change at a time, which optimizes our pet’s chances of achieving abundant health.

If you are unable or unwilling to feed your pet a species appropriate, nutritionally balanced, raw food diet, then I strongly recommend you compromise with the next best choice: USDA approved canned foods.

My last choice would be a dry food (kibble), made from human-grade ingredients with little to no grains, and LOTS OF WATER.

I’m not anti-kibble. But it’s important to recognize why you choose to feed kibble. Most pet owners feed kibble for convenience, or because your pets like it. But the truth is, it’s frequently not species appropriate, and can seriously damage your pet’s health.

Fortunately, once you recognize it’s not the healthiest choice for your companion it makes it easier to gently begin transitioning to a more biologically optimal food.

July 4th Fireworks Are No Blast For Pets

Returning home from a holiday celebration, Sharon Moore and her family discovered feces on their living room floor.

The sliding glass door to their backyard was open, and a hole had been dug under their fence.

The Moores were gone for only four hours, but D.O.G., their 2-year-old, aptly-named white German Shepherd, was gone. Left on her own to face the tumult of fireworks and loud celebrations, she escaped, apparently to seek the familiar—her family—even if she had no idea where to look.

"From what we can tell, when D.O.G. heard the fireworks she freaked out and pooped on the floor inside—for the first time ever—then she opened the sliding glass door with her paw, and dug a hole outside our fence.... She went searching for us," said Moore, of Maitland, Fla.

The Moores' search for D.O.G. ended when she was found dead alongside a road where she was often walked.

No Celebration

Moore believes that D.O.G., who wasn't normally scared of thunder or other loud noises, panicked from the cumulative effects of the fireworks, the excited voices outside, and being left alone inside the house.

The Moores' tragic loss isn't unique. Pets often become frightened and frantic by the noise and commotion of Independence Day. In fact, animal shelters across the country are accustomed to receiving "July 4th" dogs—dogs who run off during fireworks celebrations and are rescued by animal control officers or good samaritans who take them to the safety of a local shelter.

Leave Them At Home

Fortunately, preventing pet problems on Independence Day is possible by simply planning ahead and taking some basic precautions.

"With a little bit of planning and forethought, you can enjoy the excitement of the Fourth of July and know that your animal companion is safe, sound, and enjoying a little peace and quiet," said Nancy Peterson, an issues specialist with The Humane Society if the United States.

To protect your pet on the Fourth of July, take these precautions:

Resist the urge to take your pet to fireworks displays.

Do not leave your pet in the car. With only hot air to breathe inside a car, your pet can suffer serious health effects—even death—in a few short minutes. Partially opened windows do not provide sufficient air, but they do provide an opportunity for your pet to be stolen.

Keep your pets indoors at home in a sheltered, quiet area. Some animals can become destructive when frightened, so be sure that you've removed any items that your pet could destroy or that would be harmful to your pet if chewed. Leave a television or radio playing at normal volume to keep him company while you're attending Fourth of July picnics, parades, and other celebrations.

If you know that your pet is seriously distressed by loud noises like thunder, consult with your veterinarian before July 4th for ways to help alleviate the fear and anxiety he or she will experience during fireworks displays.

Never leave pets outside unattended, even in a fenced yard or on a chain. In their fear, pets who normally wouldn't leave the yard may escape and become lost, or become entangled in their chain, risking injury or death.

Make sure your pets are wearing identification tags so that if they do become lost, they can be returned promptly. Animals found running at-large should be taken to the local animal shelter, where they will have the best chance of being reunited with their owners.

If you plan to go away for the holiday weekend, read our information on Caring for Pets When You Travel.

If you follow these simple precautions, you and your pet can have a safe and happy Fourth of July.

Does Your Pet Have Allergies? What You Need to Know and Do

Does your pet:

Sneeze and cough?
Have swollen paws or inflamed ears?
Have gastrointestinal upset?
It could be that allergies are wreaking havoc on their system.

Just like in people, your healthy pet’s immune system should react to bacteria and viruses by manufacturing antibodies that allow its body to mount an immune response against these unwelcome invaders (pathogens).

Your pet’s immune system also encounters hundreds of particles every day that are not harmful, rather are just part of the natural environment. Under normal circumstances, these substances (ragweed, grasses, pollens, molds, foods, etc.) should be recognized by the body but not be considered foreign invaders.

In the case of pet allergies, however, an over-active immune system processes and interprets common substances as a toxic assault. And when your pet’s body mounts an immune response to common, normally harmless substances, or allergens, allergic symptoms appear.

Food Allergies vs. Environmental Allergies
There are two types of allergic responses that pets can experience: food and environmental. Your companion can be allergic to one type of tree or every outdoor allergen, allergic to only wheat or every starch. Some pets even inherit sensitivities to certain foods and environmental factors, and in these cases often demonstrate allergic symptoms early in life.

For other pets, allergies are acquired over several years of continual exposure to the allergen.

What may your pet be allergic to?

The truth is, animals can react to anything in their environment -- even water is a possibility if it’s contaminated with impurities. Collar and bedding materials (cotton, etc.), cleaning supplies, household chemicals and dust mites are all relatively common household allergens that could cause your pet to have an allergic reaction.

As you’re trying to figure out what allergen is causing your pet a problem, keep in mind that some pets have both food and environmental allergies. If your pet itches during the spring, summer or fall, they are most likely reacting to something they are exposed to at that time. But if your pet continues to have allergic reactions after outdoor allergens have been buried under snow, it points more toward a non-seasonal, or year-round source of allergy, such as food.

That said, if you live in an environment that does not have a hard freeze in the winter, environmental allergens can really build up and cause year-round issues for our companions. Allergy testing can be done to determine what substances your pet is reacting to at that point in time. Allergy panels can yield very different results when conducted over several months, demonstrating that the immune system can over-react to many different substances at varying times of the year.

Why Feeding Your Pet One Food for a Lifetime May be Problematic
I commonly hear people say, “My pet can’t be allergic to her food, she’s been eating it her whole life.”

This is the point, exactly! Food allergies have been shown to occur more in pets that are fed only one food source for a prolonged period of time. Your pet’s immune system can become bombarded with the same allergens for so long that it begins to react negatively to the food source.

The foods most commonly found to be allergenic to dogs and cats are:

Wheat
Corn
Chicken
Beef
Surprising?

Not really, as dogs and cats were never meant to ingest foods containing such high amounts of carbohydrates (the average commercial dog food contains over 50% grains), and were certainly designed to consume more than one protein source over a lifetime!

If you suspect that your pet has a food allergy, a food trial, or allergy elimination diet, can help you figure out which foods are the problem.

Conducting an Allergy Elimination Diet
Once your companion has developed an allergic reaction to a substance, those reactive antigens can circulate in his bloodstream for up to 6 weeks, causing inflammation and irritation.

This means that an allergy elimination diet should last at least six weeks, sometimes longer (I recommend a full 3 months).

During this period, pets must not eat any foods or treats suspected of causing a reaction. A single bite of a problematic food can cause a flare up that lasts several days, so complete elimination is essential for the process to be successful.

After your pet has been given adequate time to clear the allergic substances from his body, new foods can be added slowly back in, as you watch the animal’s response after each food is added. Interestingly, many of the foods that were previously considered allergenic can often be incorporated into the diet once your pet’s body has had ample time to detoxify and clean out cellular debris.

Many holistic vets theorize that it’s not the actual food protein that causes the immune system to react but the chemicals and preservatives included in the foods that cause the problem. Although we can’t say for sure, this would explain why, after making the correct dietary changes, many pets can then consume foods that they were previously allergic to.

Allergy Symptoms Can be Diverse
It’s critical for pet owners to recognize that allergy symptoms are very diverse, and expand beyond the typical itching or sneezing. They include:

Itchy body
Red eyes
Nasal discharge
Oozy skin
Asthm
Coughing and sneezing
Inflamed ears
Swollen paws
Gastrointestinal disease (vomiting, diarrhea, gas, chronic hairball issues, anal gland problems)
What is the Best Treatment?
Because the symptoms of inflammation are produced from the inside out, ointments, shampoos, sprays and dips can only provide temporary relief and although are beneficial to use for improving your pet’s quality of life during a flare up, long-term treatment must focus on balancing your pet’s immune system.

Steroids (also called prednisone, cortisone or the nondescript “allergy shot”) are the least optimal treatment choice, as they work by suppressing your pet’s immune system. Steroids actually turn the immune system off, which improves the symptoms remarkably fast but doesn’t address the root issue of why your pet’s immune system is over-reacting in the first place.

Not only can steroids have a negative effect on your pet’s liver, adrenal glands and kidneys, but suppressing your pet’s immune system with steroids also allows for opportunistic yeast and bacteria to grow on your pet’s skin, sometimes increasing the chances that antibiotics may be prescribed.

Antibiotics increase the likelihood of yeast overgrowth, which causes your pet to:

Smell like a corn chip
Become insanely itchy, which sends you back to the vet for more steroids
Do you see the crazy cycle? The image below does a great job of explaining it further.

As an aside, keep in mind that healthy pets do not smell bad. Yeast exudes a musty smell, and if your pet smells this way he may have a problem with yeast overgrowth. Many people assume their pets should smell this way, but in reality healthy pets should only be bathed with they’re dirty -- not because they’re smelly.

Bathing smelly pets in oatmeal (a grain) shampoo often adds fuel to the fire, requiring the pet to be re-bathed multiple times a week in order for the owners to tolerate the pet’s odor.

Nutrition is the Optimal Solution
The foods you feed your pet will eventually heal or harm. Feeding pets healing, non-allergenic foods allows their immune systems to rest. Rebalancing your pet’s immune system by offering natural, biologically appropriate wholesome foods is necessary to begin the road to recovery. Also remember that the more variety you include in your pet’s diet, the less likely your pet will be to react to the same monotonous foods. Nutritional variety is not only the spice of life, it’s critical for a balanced and healthy immune response -- and for keeping your pet allergy-free.

The Dog Flu Virus: Are You or Your Pet at Risk?

In today’s Science Times, health reporter Donald McNeil writes about a new flu virus circulating in dogs. Mr. McNeil writes:

While fears of a flu pandemic among humans have shifted from the lethal H5N1 avian flu to the relatively mild H1N1 swine flu, the H3N8 canine flu has been a quiet undercurrent in the United States, rarely discussed except among veterinarians and dog owners in the few areas where it has struck hard: Florida, New York City’s northern suburbs, Philadelphia and Denver.

Dr. Cynda Crawford, co-discoverer of the dog flu virus.This week, Dr. Cynda Crawford, one of the discoverers of the virus and a veterinarian at the University of Florida veterinary school, joins the Consults blog to answers readers’ questions about the dog flu and the first vaccine approved for it.

Read Mr. McNeil’s full story, “New Flu Vaccine Approved — for Dogs.”

Do you have a question about canine flu? Post your questions for Dr. Crawford in the “Add your comments” box below. We will be posting Dr. Crawford’s responses in the coming week. Check back for regular updates.

Weddings are going to the dogs!

Dogs are ring bearers, flower girls,
and more
Updated: Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 12:37 PM EDT

By MIKE BRODY, Special Contributor
If you're going to a wedding this summer, don't be surprised to see a dog in the receiving line. The latest trend in weddings is including dogs (and other pets to a lesser extent) in the wedding party.

Pet-loving couples are increasingly including their dogs in all aspects of their weddings, including the ceremony, according to USA Today .

An American Kennel Club survey found that 18 percent of dog owners said they either have included (or would include) their dog in their wedding ceremony.

"Many people think of their pets as family members, and they wouldn't think of having a special day like this without that member," says Celina Bojorquez, co-owner of Beverly Hills Mutt Club, which sells upscale accessories like doggie tuxedos and couture dresses.

Dogs are being used as ring bearers, flower girls and to walk the bride down the aisle. They're also being seen in many wedding photos.

Celebrities are including their pets in their ceremonies as well. Tori Spelling had her pug serve as the ring bearer and flower girl at her wedding, and Adam Sandler had his dogs Matzoball (pulled down the aisle in a wagon) and Meatball at his Malibu wedding. Meatball was his "best dog" and was dressed in a tux with a yarmulke on his head.

The American Kennel Club offers many tips such as "designating a handler during the ceremony" and "keeping the dogs away from the food" for those who are considering including Fido in their wedding.

Do you consider pets family? You're far from alone!

Nearly one-third of owners let their pets share their human beds, like Snag L. Tooth (left) of Portland, Ore.

From The Associated Press:

Susan Jacobs and her companion Kingston both like chicken and collards, chilling on the couch and riding in her convertible with the breeze tussling his curly black hair.

Kingston, it should be said, is a black poodle. But for Jacobs, 45, of Long Beach, Calif., he is like a child.

"The next time I travel, I'll probably take him with me," said Jacobs, a Mary Kay consultant and freelance writer. "I'm just used to him being around."

An Associated Press-Petside.com poll released last week found that half of all American pet owners consider their pets as much a part of the family as any other person in the household; another 36 percent said their pet is part of the family but not a full member.

That means pets often get the human touch: Nearly half of all dog owners and 40 percent of cat owners admit giving their pets human food at least sometimes; nearly half give the animals human names; and nearly a third let them sleep in a human bed. While just 19 percent had bought an outfit for a pet, 43 percent felt their pet had its own "sense of style."

Singles were more likely to say a pet was a full member of the family than married people — 66 percent of single women versus 46 percent of married women, for example. And men were less likely to call their pet a full member of the household.

For some single women, pets become surrogate children, said Kristen Nelson, a veterinarian in Scottsdale, Ariz. She said men are also attached to pets but are less likely to admit it because it's not seen as masculine.

A little over a quarter of pet owners celebrate their pet's birthday or the day it came to live with them and a third have included a pet's photo or name in a holiday card.

Still, 42 percent of pet owners have taken a pet on vacation, with dogs more likely to accompany the family than cats. Dog owners were also more likely to take their pets to work (21 percent) or somewhere the animal wasn't allowed (18 percent).

Must-Know Tips to Keep Your Pet's Ears Healthy

Taking care of your pet’s ears is easier than you might think. A few simple steps will help you prevent otitis externa, which is simply the medical term for inflammation of the outer ear.

There are two reasons for your pet’s ear canal problems: chronic inflammation and infection. Inflammation, if left untreated, often leads to infection.

How can you tell if your dog or cat has ear inflammation or infection?

If your pet has hot, red, swollen or itchy ears without a lot of discharge, he most likely has inflammation, whereas if those symptoms are present with significant discharge, he probably has an infection.

Inflammation

There are three main reasons for ear inflammation:

Allergies
Moisture
Wax

The most common reason for inflammation is allergies. Allergic responses to foods or agents in the environment cause inflammation throughout your pet’s body—eye/nose/throat inflammation, skin inflammation, bowel inflammation--just about any body system can be affected, including ears.

Allergies are quite common in dogs and cats. If your pet has ear inflammation, it could be he’s allergic to something in his environment or his food. Dogs with this condition will sometimes run their heads along furniture trying to relieve these miserable symptoms, scratch their ears incessantly, or shake their heads more frequently If your pet is exhibiting any of these symptoms you should examine his ears for the telltale signs of redness and swelling.

The second reason for inflammation in your pet’s ear is moisture, also known as “swimmer’s ear.” This often occurs in the summer when dogs enjoy being outside, playing in lakes, ponds and pools where they get water in their ear canals. If your pet enjoys being in water, this additional source of moisture, in combination with his warm body temperature provides the perfect environment for inflammation and/or infection to develop, unless you take steps to dry out his ear canals.

Even dogs that don’t swim, but live in high humidity areas, are susceptible to these ear conditions, just from the ambient moisture in the air. Other less obvious sources of moisture in your dog’s ears are playing in the rain or snow.

Similarly, when dogs go to the groomer, they are susceptible to getting water in their ears at bath time. This is another common cause of ear inflammation.

The most important thing to remember in preventing ear moisture issues is to keep your pet’s ears dry, clean and free of debris. In fact, the third major reason for ear problems is the buildup of wax.

Wax is normal in mammalian ears, but dogs and cats have varying amounts of it, just as humans do. Some dogs need their ears cleaned of wax daily. Others never have a buildup. Certain breeds produce more wax than others, such as Labradors and retrievers who are, by nature, swimmers.

If you have one of these breeds, you should get your pet accustomed to having his ears cleaned early on--from the time he is a puppy. Some breeds, such as bulldogs, cocker spaniels and poodles, can also produce an abundance of wax that needs attention daily.

It is important to determine how often your pet needs his ears cleaned so you can prevent this waxy buildup, which could lead to inflammation or infection. The only way to know is through observation.

Kitties are not immune from wax buildup. You should regularly check your cat’s ears for inflammation, as well as wax buildup. Some cats have dry ear canals that never need cleaning, and others should be cleaned regularly.

Outer Ear Infection

There are two types of organisms that infect the outer, or external ear: bacteria and fungi.

The primary fungal culprit is yeast. Yeast are opportunistic pathogens, meaning they are present on the bodies of humans, dogs and cats all the time. It is only when the animal’s health is out of check that the yeast overgrows, causing an infection. So, if the immune system is functioning properly, yeast is not ordinarily a problem.

If your dog is having chronic yeast infections, he probably has an overly warm, moist ear environment that you need to remedy. If you have been keeping your dog’s ears clean and dry and he still has chronic yeast infections, or an infection that just won’t go away, you need to look for an underlying immunological reason this is happening.

He could have an endocrine (glandular) problem, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease, or even some sort of immunosuppressive problem.

The most common cause of ear problems in dogs is bacterial infections. Veterinarians classify bacteria into 2 groups: pathogenic and nonpathogenic.

Pathogenic bacteria are not normal inhabitants of your pet’s body. They are bacteria your dog could catch from, say, contaminated pond water. That is, they are not normally present on the animal. The dog goes splashing through a pond, water splashes into his ear, and then an infection results.

Nonpathogenic bacteria are the dog’s normal bacteria (typically staph species) that start to take over the ear canal, growing out of control. Dogs have a normal, healthy layer of good bacteria all over their bodies, which prevent pathogenic bacteria from taking hold, just as you and I are covered with normally helpful bacteria that can cause an infection if our immune system becomes compromised.

How do you know which type of bacterial infection your pet has?

You don’t. The only way to find out is with an ear culture.

An ear culture is a lab test where your veterinarian swabs your pet’s ear and sends the sample in to a lab, which actually determines what organism is growing in there and what medication will treat it.

If your pet has a one-time ear infection and your vet treats it with a medication without culturing, and it gets better, that is fine. But if it comes back, or if the infection becomes chronic, then you really need to insist on an ear culture.

It is very important to finish the medication, even if your pet seems better. Failing to finish the full medication regimen can lead to regrowth of resistant organisms, a much more serious problem.

Any time your pet is being treated for an infection, it is important to properly clean the ears and remove all sticky debris so the medication can reach the infected tissue. Ointment that builds up in the ear canal is nothing more than warm, sticky “goo” for the infection to grow in.

Ear Cleaning 101

I am not a big fan of using alcohol to clean the ears because it can cause burning and irritation to already inflamed tissues. However, there are many easy to obtain preparations that are appropriate.

My favorite cleaning agents are:

Witch hazel
Organic apple cider vinegar and purified water, mixed equal parts
Hydrogen peroxide
Green tea infusion (using tea that has been cooled, of course)
Tea tree oil greatly diluted in purified water (but NOT for kitties)

You can use a cotton swab to clean the outside ear area, but never use them inside the ear canal. Use cotton balls instead, since they cannot be inserted too far into the ear. Cotton swabs can damage to your pets eardrums, whereas cotton balls don’t.

If you’ve never cleaned your pets ears before, ask your vet for a quick “how to” lesson next time you’re in for a visit. If your pet has recurrent infections or significant inflammation (if the ears are very painful when touched) it’s important your vet examines the canal before you begin a cleaning regimen. Some dogs may have ruptured ear drums, and special cleaners and medications are required for these pets.

The best way to clean the ear canal is to saturate the cotton ball with your cleaning solution and repeatedly swab out the inside of the ear, until you see no residue on the cotton ball. This may take one swipe or dozens—it completely depends on how much buildup is present in your pet’s ears. You might need to do this daily, weekly, monthly, or maybe even never, if you’re lucky.

Alternately, you can use a small squirt bottle to flush the animal’s ear, then use a cotton ball to wick out the solution. The problem with this method is, usually it causes the animal to shake his head, flinging the solution all over you, your clothing and your bathroom wall. So make sure you are not attempting this while dressed in your favorite duds.

As you can see, taking care of your pet’s years isn’t as difficult as you might have thought! Just a few simple steps to keep his ears clean and dry will go far in preventing many of the outer ear conditions that most commonly afflict our precious companions.

Hot-weather alert: How to protect your pet

We're all talking about the blistering heat and how miserable it is. Our animal friends feel it, too. Here's some advice on protecting your pets in this weather, from Dr. Juan Patino, owner of Kirkpatrick Veterinary Hospital in Orlando.

Provide shelter and plenty of water. Pets should have easy access to an area where shade, water and coolness are available all the time. Pets do not perspire, and it's difficult for their bodies to dissipate the heat. Pay special attention to puppies, kittens, senior pets, working pets and small breeds -- they have an increased risk of overheating.

Never leave your pet in the car. The inside of a car can reach temperatures up to 120 degrees in a matter of minutes, even if parked in the shade. This can cause brain damage, heat exhaustion, heatstroke and even death.

Limit exercise. Exercise is important, but in the heat, walk your pet early in the morning or late at night and maintain a gentle pace. If the pet is panting a lot or shows signs of exhaustion, it's time to stop.

Take Your Dog To Work Day is Friday, June 26!

King, NC (PSI)—Pet Sitters International, creator of Take Your Dog To Work Day®, today announced Petfinder.com and Dog Fancy magazine as the official adoption partner and official publication partner, respectively, for the tenth anniversary of its annual Take Your Dog To Work Day (TYDTWDay®) campaign.

Offering a fun and unique way to promote dog adoptions, the TYDTWDay campaign encourages employers to open their doors to their employees’ canines for one fun summer Friday.

Co-workers without pets are able to witness the human-animal bond when dogs visit their offices on Friday, June 26, and may be encouraged to experience this joy firsthand by adopting a dog of their own

According to PSI president, Patti Moran, the campaign is carried out every year so that the association’s 8,000 members can give back to the communities they serve. This year, the need for dog adoptions is hugely compounded by economic factors.

“Shelter’s everywhere are reporting increases in dogs populations and our goal is to create as many new homes as possible,” Moran said. We are excited that Petfinder.com and Dog Fancy magazine are joining our efforts to spread the word that ‘secondhand dogs’ can offer the first-rate love ..

Last year’s campaign made great strides in promoting the plight of “foreclosure dogs” and encouraging adoptions, garnering extensive media and a surge in traffic at www.takeyourdog.com. Mentions in high-profile publications, such as USA Today and the Wall Street Journal blog, as well as on popular shows such as “Live with Regis and Kelly” bolstered recognition of the campaign.

For the 2009 campaign, Petfinder.com, Dog Fancy magazine and PSI will work together to provide a unique, multimedia experience for businesses, shelters and dog lovers interested in promoting local pet adoption through participation in Take Your Dog To Work Day.

The TYDTWDay web site allows visitors to register participation and access downloadable TYDTWDay resource guides for businesses and shelters, as well as tips for participating and celebrating. This year the site offers an expanded registration feature, allowing international participants to register. Participants can enter their professional pooches in the official TYDTWDay photo and video contests.

This year’s campaign stresses that as people look for ways to do more with less, adopting a dog is one of the basic, most affordable ways to bring joy to a family. Using the site’s Petfinder.com search tool, individuals can locate adoptable pets in their area.

Since 1999, Pet Sitters International has encouraged suitable businesses of all sizes to allow dogs in the workplace on Take Your Dog To Work Day. During a time when many businesses have been forced to cut jobs and decrease benefits, the event is a fun, low-cost “pet perk” companies can offer to boost employee moral and align themselves with a great cause—promoting local pet adoptions.

PSI encourages businesses, shelters and pet lovers interested in learning more about TYDTWDay to visit www.takeyourdog.com for more information.